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I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

CEF11E

By CEF11E,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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RB120WHY Enthusiast

RB120WHY

Posted
Posted

Just a quick question...

I have this installed to my external gate and although not really a problem, i would just like to understand a bit more as to whats going on.....

I have the boost signal coming from the manifold of my RB20. I have just increased the boost from 9psi and now it runs 11psi in first, climbs to about 13psi in second and gets to 16psi in third and i have changed to overdrive and it climbs to 19psi... I have a manual shifted auto with a 5000rpm stall. It is not a problem at the moment as my afr's are coping but i would like consistent boost in the near future :rofl:

Cheers

Steve

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RodMonsta Collaborator

RodMonsta

Posted
Posted

Anyone here have tried both "ball n spring" vs jaycar IEBC.

my gfb sux, wanna try jaycar soon but after reading this thread i feel like giving it a go 1st.

anyone here have experienced both controllers?

chadr33 Contributor

chadr33

Posted
Posted
Anyone here have tried both "ball n spring" vs jaycar IEBC.

my gfb sux, wanna try jaycar soon but after reading this thread i feel like giving it a go 1st.

anyone here have experienced both controllers?

I have, first bought the turbotech one, it didn't hold boost with my turbo, tried everything to make it work but I have an aftermarket cheap t3\t4 I bought on ebay which didn't like any cheap boost controllers, so I bought the jaycar ebc, does the job for me, but I had to tune it completely different to the examples given, because my turbo has issues. Still after playing around with ebc it was much better for my application. Would recommend jaycar to anyone who can solder and follow instructions.

FOR SALE- TURBOTECH BOOST CONTROLLER $35 as new delivered.

- Turbo XS Bleed valve $35

AnFz Enthusiast

AnFz

Posted
Posted

I just got my hands on a turbotech, I fitted it up and tried it out yesterday.....I've got to say that my GFB atomic bleeder did a better job of holding boost between gears. With the turbotech, boost dropped down as much as 4psi between 1st to 2nd. Keep in mind that this is with an auto with a manual shift kit, so I might have a different result those with a clutch.

To the turbotech's credit though, it does not spike at all, where as the GFB does slightly (1psi on ramp up).

Response time between the 2, didnt notice much....perhaps the turbotech was slightly more responsive, but this was probably the placebo effect after hearing so much good stuff about it :angry:

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
don rb20's make max power at 6400rpm,

that may explain the spiking at around 6700rpm.

But its not spiking.. Boost is dropping 1psi.

You may want to bung a nipple in to the ic pipe that attaches to the cross over pipe and block off the one used on the turbo. Similiar to how the R33's are setup. This will prevent boost drop with bleeders. No guarantees but its a step in the right direction.

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted
i havent been back tracking but your saying you dont know why yours is spiking, dezz?

yep

whats more odd than the spike itself, is the fact that it spikes at 4500rpm (when on full load)..

4500rpm is when the stock R33 solenoid kicks in with its 2 stage boost from factory, when boost goes from 5 to 7....

mine is pretty much going from whatever my boost is set at, to +2 at 4500rpm....the stock solenoid is completely disconnected.

it was doing it on the stock computer, but now has a pfc and is doing the same thing, so ECU can be ruled out...

its gotta be something turbo/wastegate/dump related.

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

HAYY i was going to post the same results. I had my car on the dyno, and the controller was all aover the place. I took it apart and realised the spring was the wrong way around, fixed that, and it a littel, marginaly better. basicaly the controller set to 10 pis, will spike at 4500 all the way to 12 or 13 and then bleed off down to 10 or 9 after 5500rpm.

This sux for me cos as it spikes the computer goes to R&R and creates a flat spot, then all good.

IF i don't use WOT, then the controller is ok. But it seams slugish, mine doesn't come onto full boost till 4000-4500 rpm.

Has anyone found a solution to the problem or something. I am thinking i might switch to the JAYCAR boost controller or the HYBRID full electronic boost controller.

AVC-R are tooo expensice and teh jaycar kit does the same job, just needs to be tuned on the dyno to get propper results.

THOSE with the JAYCAR kit, how did you find tuning it, can it be done on the road?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
AVC-R are tooo expensice and teh jaycar kit does the same job, just needs to be tuned on the dyno to get propper results.

THOSE with the JAYCAR kit, how did you find tuning it, can it be done on the road?

You'll find the same goes for the AVCR. To get nice results without spiking, maximum boost response and holding boost in each gear you really need to set it up on the dyno. This is also why some claim the avcr is crap; because it hasn't been setup correctly. The blitz sbc-id is the next step down from the avcr, when I say next step down I mean features. It lacks an important little feature that allows the selection of different gain levels for different gears, this affects that gears boost response. I found the lower gears to feel a little sluggish up on to boost IF the controller learnt boost in a high gear. Have the controller learn boost in a lower gear and it would tend to spike in the high gears for example up a hill.

minger Enthusiast

minger

Posted
Posted (edited)

does anyone know how well these would work on a prety stock 32 gtst?

would it be worth it?

what qould be safe boost level with stock turbo?

whats the legality in sa?

Edited by minger
luke20t Collaborator

luke20t

Posted
Posted

i got a rb20 running a rb25 series2 turbo.

i basically run 14 psi

boost spikes for half a second to 15psi, then sits on 14psi and goes down real slow to 13psi by the time it hits redline.

i think it works well on my car.

minger

on a r32 with exhaust and air filter, you can run up to 14 psi as long as your air/fuel ratios are good

if you dont know, run 10psi to be safe!

and u will notice a difference in power!

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted
I took it apart and realised the spring was the wrong way around

there's a flat coiled side of the spring, and a cut uneven side.

i assume the flat side sits against the ball bearing. Is that what you found?

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
whats more odd than the spike itself, is the fact that it spikes at 4500rpm (when on full load)..

4500rpm is when the stock R33 solenoid kicks in with its 2 stage boost from factory, when boost goes from 5 to 7....

mine is pretty much going from whatever my boost is set at, to +2 at 4500rpm....the stock solenoid is completely disconnected.

it was doing it on the stock computer, but now has a pfc and is doing the same thing, so ECU can be ruled out...

its gotta be something turbo/wastegate/dump related.

i'd be putting it down to the cams changing over, and more air coming out of the motor at high rpm and the wastegate can't handle the extra air.

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