I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!

[markimak]

still no problems with the 3 cars i use them on..

works fine on my GTR less than standard boost, the GTT works fine.. 5psi all day long.

and the S14a dropped it from 16psi.. so shes safe now

[SS8_Gohan]

are these the same as the jrd ones? on ebay???

and the difference between the two is?

i noticed the spring inside is shit and gets bent and stuck. it this causing my boost spike problems?

well i reckon that's a place to start, regarding the differences between the two controllers. orignal is good quality, your knock off item is shit.

don't go bagging out the original when you've bought a piece of shit knock-off.

pretty damn simple if you ask me

[spin_psycle]

Can anyone tell me where i can get a replacement spring and ball bearing for the turbotech boost controller?

[Baconer]

Just got mine today and have a few questions.

-How do you know what the PSI is set at when adjusting the screw

-Heard mention of some having the hole filled/never had a hole

-How slight are the adjustments to the screw to raise the boost setting

-Is 10 PSI is a safe level for a stock R33

-Probably a stupid question but i dont know much about boost altering. When changing the boost level, is this altering the:

1) High Boost that comes on at 4500rpm

2) Low Boost that comes on at 3000rpm

3) Selected boost level at all times

4) None of the above, moron

Cheers for any help

[SS8_Gohan]

you'll need a boost guage, or trust the factory one if you dare

it removes the two-stage boost, so it's the level you set all the time

you won't know what psi until you start booting the car and see what your guage is

10psi should be fine for a stock 33

don't worry if yours doesn't have the hole, it'll be fine

small turns of the screw = big difference in PSI, just be very small in your adjustments.

all the way out is less boost yes ppl's??

[Mark_SX]

Not sure if this has already been mentioned, but looking at the ebay ad for the item, it appears that the maker has gone back to putting the vent hole in the controller.

Mark.

[sxc33]

I just put mine in and it isnt too bad. Only drama is that it bounces to 12/13psi (as it set at the moment), then as it climbs thru the rev range, it does taper away down to 9/10psi.

Anyone else encountered a drop of that much? I had read that at the most around 1 psi drop is usual.

And whats the point of the hole in the actual device?

ANYWAY, it works awesome as it is. Has totally transformed the car (its auto), it has so much more oomph cause it comes on soo much quicker. Awesome little device

[pixel8r]

I just put mine in and it isnt too bad. Only drama is that it bounces to 12/13psi (as it set at the moment), then as it climbs thru the rev range, it does taper away down to 9/10psi.

Anyone else encountered a drop of that much? I had read that at the most around 1 psi drop is usual.

And whats the point of the hole in the actual device?

ANYWAY, it works awesome as it is. Has totally transformed the car (its auto), it has so much more oomph cause it comes on soo much quicker. Awesome little device

I have a JRD one from off ebay. Same kind of thing as the turbotech one and mine does the same thing as you described. It boosts to 12psi initially then instantly drops back to 11 but from there it gradually tapers off down to 9psi.

Reliability is good however, it never spikes, it spools up quickly and the boost is very predictable.

I'm really keen to get hold of a controller that can hold 11-12 psi right throughout the rev range - reckon I'd pick up 10-15kw just with that alone.

Most people I've spoken to say that the behaviour I described above is quite normal for this type of boost controller, so I'm wondering what other options I have, other than buying an expensive IEBC. There's always the jaycar kit which may be tempting. My brother's an electronics wiz so I'd get him to solder it up for me

[Cubes]

Most people I've spoken to say that the behaviour I described above is quite normal for this type of boost controller, so I'm wondering what other options I have, other than buying an expensive IEBC. There's always the jaycar kit which may be tempting. My brother's an electronics wiz so I'd get him to solder it up for me

The next cheapest boost control method is to grab an adjustable actuator thats got the required boost level spring you wish from the local turbo shop. Down here ATS do them for $120.

They generally come in steps of 2psi. So 9psi, 12psi, 14psi, 17psi etc... Then use the adjustable arm to place a little more preload on it to fine tune the boost level.

From my fiddlings generally a bleeder will hold 2-3psi more than the actuator is rated at. Its a start.

Use both to help spool.

EDIT: OR.. You could always run an R32 RB20DET actuator? 11-12psi off the bat.

[pixel8r]

The next cheapest boost control method is to grab an adjustable actuator thats got the required boost level spring you wish from the local turbo shop. Down here ATS do them for $120.

They generally come in steps of 2psi. So 9psi, 12psi, 14psi, 17psi etc... Then use the adjustable arm to place a little more preload on it to fine tune the boost level.

From my fiddlings generally a bleeder will hold 2-3psi more than the actuator is rated at. Its a start.

Use both to help spool.

EDIT: OR.. You could always run an R32 RB20DET actuator? 11-12psi off the bat.

Would this method build boost at the same speed as a stock setup though?

Not sure if its only at high boost but apparently the wastegate will sort of creep open with a stock setup, whereas with the turbotech controller or an IEBC the wastegate is kept closed (ie. it sees no pressure) right up until the desired boost is reached...

This is one reason I opted for the manual boost controller, its cheap, AND it (apparently) builds boost a bit quicker.

(actually, I'd love a SITC to reduce lag even further).

[sxc33]

Am i correct in assuming that the hole in it helps it spool up quicker between gear changes. Cause mine being an auto, there is no throttle lift off as such that would require it to need such a function.

Would plugging the hole reduce the 5/6 pound drop that i am experiencing?

I read thru the first few pages of this thread (waaay to many to read for a lazy bastard like me) and noticed that the early ones didnt have a hole.

Also, would a faulty spring in the guts of it have this kind of impact?

[Cubes]

Would this method build boost at the same speed as a stock setup though?

Not sure if its only at high boost but apparently the wastegate will sort of creep open with a stock setup, whereas with the turbotech controller or an IEBC the wastegate is kept closed (ie. it sees no pressure) right up until the desired boost is reached...

This is one reason I opted for the manual boost controller, its cheap, AND it (apparently) builds boost a bit quicker.

(actually, I'd love a SITC to reduce lag even further).

It wouldn't the stock actuator has a weak spring so it starts lifting off much much earlier than the heavier rated actuator.

It still won't be as sharp as the ball/spring mbc but it will be pretty close. Which is why I suggested to use both, the mbc for boost response and the actuator so it holds boost

[uraah]

installed mine today set it to 10psi but now when the car reaches about 5000rpm it starts to splutter only other mod i have is a cat back xzorst do i need a pod or maybe a dump pipe???

on the plus side it spools alot faster and less laggy

[r33kid]

I have a JRD one from off ebay. Same kind of thing as the turbotech one and mine does the same thing as you described. It boosts to 12psi initially then instantly drops back to 11 but from there it gradually tapers off down to 9psi.

Reliability is good however, it never spikes, it spools up quickly and the boost is very predictable.

I'm really keen to get hold of a controller that can hold 11-12 psi right throughout the rev range - reckon I'd pick up 10-15kw just with that alone.

Most people I've spoken to say that the behaviour I described above is quite normal for this type of boost controller, so I'm wondering what other options I have, other than buying an expensive IEBC. There's always the jaycar kit which may be tempting. My brother's an electronics wiz so I'd get him to solder it up for me

I also own the JRD unit, and have no issues, mine drops off from 15psi to 14psi but is rock steady from there, i also run a fuel cut defender and have a ces dump pipe, so i dont get any turbo back pressure, for the money of the JRD unit you cant go wrong and a EBC is not worth the money as they also have spiking issues.

As for the spring getting stuck its common with all ball and spring controllers, when winding just slow it down.

[sxc33]

So does anyone know what the point of the hole on in it is for?

What would happen if i make it bigger or get rid o it all together?

[RBwhatever]

Well from my understanding, Having a hole can increase boost response between gear changes, but in doing so your creating a passage for the boost to escape and effectively not hold boost at higher rpm and possibly losing 1-5psi in the top end.

However, not having the hole it seems to hold the boost alot better. It will not lose boost at high rpm at all. So you set it at 12psi and it stays at 12psi throughout the whole rev range. Some have had problems with lag between changes with this setup, but I myself have not had a problem with this at all.

All in all, I would rather my bc holding the predetermined psi rather than losing 1-5psi later in the rpm.

After all isn't the point of a boost controller to control boost to which you set it at? Rather than not controlling it and losing psi?

If I recall correctly, I remember a member getting in contact simark87 about the differences in the 2 controllers and he said, the ones with the hole are for high boost applications which what he specified as 18+psi. And the ones without the hole for lower boost applications.

Mine doesn't have the hole and I'm very happy with the response of my boost even between gear changes. I'm even happier with the control of boost as it does not spike nor bleed off psi.

Cheers.

[sxc33]

Well from my understanding, Having a hole can increase boost response between gear changes, but in doing so your creating a passage for the boost to escape and effectively not hold boost at higher rpm and possibly losing 1-5psi in the top end.

However, not having the hole it seems to hold the boost alot better. It will not lose boost at high rpm at all. Some have had problems with lag between changes with this setup, but I myself have not had a problem with this at all.

Well i got an auto, so i aint worried about lag between gear changes

Will plug it up and see what happens

[RBwhatever]

Well i got an auto, so i aint worried about lag between gear changes

Will plug it up and see what happens

your skyrine on qss aren't you.

I heard about your boost controlling probs. Block that hole up and see how you go.

[Nothing(V)an]

got mine today, doesnt have the hole, i have no boost guage yet so im just playing around with it a little, if i boost it up to 7psi going by the factory guage, do you think that would b safe? i think my factory guage shows less boost than the car is actually running?

[RBwhatever]

got mine today, doesnt have the hole, i have no boost guage yet so im just playing around with it a little, if i boost it up to 7psi going by the factory guage, do you think that would b safe? i think my factory guage shows less boost than the car is actually running?

your stock gauge doesn't read psi, it reads mmhg. your stock boost at the moment is 7psi. If you bump it up to 7 on your stock gauge it'll be like 14psi.

edit: oh yeah, it won't be safe.

Edited April 20, 2007 by KeyMakeR33