Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm just about to finally install the timing belt

I've been told a few different way to tension the belt.

Here is what the manual says:

belt2fg.jpg

They also mention before this to put the tensioner in with the spring etc. I have a few questions:

1. So - If I rotate the engine twice once everything is in the tensioner spring will provide enough pressure on the belt to set the tension correctly then I just need to tighten it up? IS this CORRECT?

2. Also, with the nissan belt there is markers. Even if you didn't have the cam and crank markers lined up with the v in the piece on the block and marks on the cam cover if you have the all important marks on cam and crank aligned with the belt markers then you are right aren't you. Pretty nice of Nissan to do that.

3. The markers on the old belt did not match the crank and cam centre punched marks...does this mean it was replaced previously at some stage?

Thanks

PS I have found a very good source for the idler and tensioner bearings - $76 for the 2. And they are NSK - i.e. genuine. I have bosted it iin the FAQ

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73532-setting-the-timing-belt-tension/
Share on other sites

1. YES, tighten it based on what it auto adjust to. Ensure you hold it in place with a hex head wrench when torqueing it down.

2. Yes, the belt marks are a good way to line everything up. To give you an idea, last one I did we were a tooth off on the exhaust cam but couldn't really tell based on looking at the markings on the cam backing plate, but the belt told the tale.

3. No, because of the size difference between the cam and crank sprockets, the marks will move once you start rotating the assembly. Once you get everything setup and running, look at the marks again, they won't line up anymore.

Something I discussed with a member recently. It is based on the Engine manual detail. What I didn't see above is the need to remove the plugs to ensure minimum load against turning.

This is a preferred way of ensuring the belt tension is good on the non adjusted side between the exhaust cam wheel and the crank drive pulley. You can do this safely as the belt tension will still be pretty good and shouldn't jump teeth. The tension is then actually set on the belt by using the allen key to bring the adjuster onto the belt with about 20 kg of side tension.

What I do is fit the belt with all marks correct, then fit the harmonic balancer and bolt and tighten slightly to tension the non adjusted side so there is about 5mm deflection on the longest length of belt when wiggled gently, then bring the adjuster in on the other side until there is similar tension that side and nip up the nut.

Too tight on the cam belt and it will sing a bit, too loose and the consequences can be disastrous so the belt should feel firm, not hard or slack. Unfortunately that is the closest I can describe as it would need special tools to determine the tension exactly and the only avoidance is experience.

Find a car recently done that has the cam wheels exposed and feel the tension by grabbing the belt between thumb and forefinger and wiggle slightly. This will give a feel for the right tension.

  • Like 1

Are you talking 5mm in one direction? If I push quite hard on the tensioner side there is about 6mm deflection in one direction. Bit less on the idler side.

I have it back together now but there is still a bit of harshness at low rpm. Whether this is a radiator shroud or something else vibrating. The mechanic thought it was the timing belt hitting the cam cover before. The belt was a lot looser before than it is now though.

Might have to get him to put it one the dyno and have have a look as he loads it up from 1000rpm in 3rd gear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...