Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people out there,

I was just wondering if anyone knows how hot their turbo's get. I know that this is a "how long is a peice of string" question but I am interested to know if anyone has gone for a drive or race perhaps and whacked a laser thermometer on their turbo just to see how hot it gets. Perhaps someone has read this info some where. If you have, then please tell...

Your tubo size and engine will make a difference in heat as smaller turbos run hotter, etc. Obviously, there would be an operating range depending on how hard you drive, etc. From what I understand the operating temp could be anywhere from 100 deg c to 1000 deg c! Anyone know?

Chriso

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73627-how-hot-is-your-turbo-do-you-know/
Share on other sites

lol are you having fun posting this on every single forum, saw it on boostcruising ust before, now here :P

Oops... Busted. :Oops:

:)

Yeah, bit of a forum hussy.

I had a tiny leak at my dump flange and needed to know how hot it get so I can get the right stuff. Looks like I won't need it anymore anyway as I found some loose screws... Still interesting to know though...

wow, you must be fast to jump out, pop the bonnet and look.

i've seen mine red but only on a dyno

i find it stays red for at least around 30 seconds and glows for a minute or so..

and yes i am usually quick, and when i have seen it i have been on a road in the middle of nowhere so no cars and is safe stop anywhere whenever :rofl:

Could be you're right. Damn hot anyway.

Means your trying hard enough :cheers:

btw a bit off topic but i wanted to ask you,

after u fitted the hicas lock bar, was there a difference in the weight of steering at any speed??

i ask this because im quite sure the steering weight varies depending on speed, and figure it might get stuffed up by locking the hicas..

Take a look in the tutorial , but the quick answer is yes it can get hard at low speed (40) due to the system being electrically variably loaded, according to speed. This is common but dissapears with extra caster.

I've had glowing turbo on stock r32 after hard mountain work.. I think its just a combination of having no dump pipe to dissipate the heat better, and the fact that the R32 turbo is pretty small. Could also be related to clogged water lines, but need to investigate this further.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...