Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GDay,

im putting a single Garrett GT35 turbo on my RB26 and was after peoples experiences with boost threshold for different turbine housings. Im tossing up between the 0.82A/R and the 1.06A/R turbine housing on the GT35. Does anyone have first hand experience of when i can expect boost with either of these housings?

The engine has forged internals, no head work, and standard cams for the time being.

I suspect it'll be the 0.86A/R because i want response for street driving, but i just thought i'd ask as the difference between the two housings is 100hp i think.

Thanks,

Shaun.

Depending where you look, it varies between 20 hp difference and 100 hp. I did find an 80 hp variance in one place.

Gotta love acurate net info ...

Everyone seems to rate the 1.06 rear one as 700hp.

The .86 rear seems to vary between 620hp and 680hp ......

actaully just found a site that rates the .86 rear as 700 hp too

Be really nice to know exactly what the .86 rear one is rated at if anyone knows for sure ??

The Garret Catalog rates the .82 and 1.06 from 400 - 600 hp ....

GDay,

im putting a single Garrett GT35 turbo on my RB26 and was after peoples experiences with boost threshold for different turbine housings. Im tossing up between the 0.82A/R and the 1.06A/R turbine housing on the GT35. Does anyone have first hand experience of when i can expect boost with either of these housings?

The engine has forged internals, no head work, and standard cams for the time being.

I suspect it'll be the 0.86A/R because i want response for street driving, but i just thought i'd ask as the difference between the two housings is 100hp i think.

Thanks,

Sha

un.

.82 housing will be better for street use as 1.06 is better suited for bigger capacity engines, dont get me wrong, it will work, but at about 3800-4000rpm

Thanks guys. I know its a bit of a touchy subject (Re: single or twin turbos for street use), but im going to try to get the best of both worlds and go for street friendly response with a single high mount turbo. Ive had a mismatched turbo before (GT30 0.86a/r on RB20) and the boost threshold was way too high for my liking. It came on full at about 4200rpm. Id like boost by 3300 or so with my RB26 package, however, i dont want it to die off too much in the top end either. I dont know if im kidding myself though.

Any other thoughts/experiences would be appreciated.

Shaun.

Thanks guys. I know its a bit of a touchy subject (Re: single or twin turbos for street use), but im going to try to get the best of both worlds and go for street friendly response with a single high mount turbo. Ive had a mismatched turbo before (GT30 0.86a/r on RB20) and the boost threshold was way too high for my liking. It came on full at about 4200rpm. Id like boost by 3300 or so with my RB26 package, however, i dont want it to die off too much in the top end either. I dont know if im kidding myself though.

Any other thoughts/experiences would be appreciated.

Shaun.

what boost level are you planning on running with this setup?

what kind of power are you really after?

i don't know about the other guys, but i don't think you'll see fullboost (i.e., ~15psi +) at 3300rpm with your RB26/GT35 (A/R .82).

if you're after fullboost at that kind of rpm and you want it to be streetable with plenty of poke, i'd recommend you go for a Garrett GT30R with A/R .82 exhuast housing.

it will be very streetable and still make a peak power of 300rwkw with ease, with a very good average power in the usable rpm range.

Id probably run up to 1.5 Bar. I definately want over 300rwkw; Id be stoked to get 350, but thats pushing it a bit seeing as though i want low down response too. The engine is going in my gtst, so its a two wheel drive format.

Whats the difference between a GT30R and a GT35?

Also, all the highmount manifolds around are only available in T4 flange. Does anyone know if you can get Garrett turbos with a T4 flange? Theres one advertised in the For Sale section but i didnt know if it was a typo because i thought all Garretts came in T3 only.

Shaun.

Thanks Bezerkley; the problem with GCG is that they dont have highmount manifolds for the RB26 yet; ive been waiting for about 6months for them to come in. Are you talking about putting 30/40bb turbos on RB20/25 GCG manifolds? Because they have those in stock.

I can get the manifold in a T4 flange so maybe instead of modifying the manifold ill look at getting the turbo in T4 flange.

Anyone know of any other places that offer highmount RB26 manifolds with a T3 flange.

GCG Hi mount manifold has T3 Flange. We have fitted 30/40bb turbos on these manifolds.

You can get exhaust housing in T4 flange if you need it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...