Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 182
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

All done and dusted. Schmiddy thanks for the thread, I would have ended up with calipers painted in VHT Red (read: ugly!) otherwise. They turned out with a neat finish and nicely understated when you walk past the car.

The fronts have three or four coats of red and turned out great. The rears copped six or so and turned out much darker and the metal(?) flakes weren't as visible. Just something to keep in mind.

Before

IMG_0129.JPG

After

IMG_0158.JPG

As Blitz says, another limited edition gunmetal grey R32 :(

IMG_0152.JPG

thanks Joel - she should be on the road mid-January.

Have had the rims stripped back to bare metal and resprayed metallic silver, so they look even better now.

:lol: Cheers Andrew, everyone loves dish :P Hey how much was painting please? As you can see in the pic, mine have been under chemical attack by the looks of it and the alloy is worse for wear.

Thanks Joel. It's the Duplicolor MetalCast Anodized Red, MC-200. It turned exactly as I wanted - so that non-Skyline guys might confuse it with a factory colour, as opposed to a bright green or something like that. The more coats the deeper the red.

Here is the order sheet for those interested:

Metalcast.JPG

yeah mine had been under salt attack too - they arrived in similar shape to yours on the car from Japan. I got it done at mates rates from a mate who works at the ROH factory, so cost for me was very minimal. But I was quoted $100 to strip back to bare metal, then you'd have the cost of them being machined/puttied, sanded and repainted - I would imagine retail from a wheel place would be $300-$400 all up. The guy who did mine for me told I got it done just in the nick of time, as the wheels were absolutely full of rust and would have lasted about 1 year before starting to disintegrate. They x-rayed them to find this out, so it would be worth your while to do something soon. They put some special anti-rust paint on them (can't remember its name) to seal them, before they painted them. They did not do a top coat of paint on the insides due to the severity of the damage, so he told me I need to fish oil the insides yearly to protect them, and all will be fine.

  • 1 month later...

i was thinking...to get the word nissan painted....

what about soaking something like a sponge in white paint then pressing the caliper onto in after you've completed the blue (or wateva colour) coat. Do this a few times, then maybe the last coat with a paint brush if it hasn't got a perfect finish.

Anyone think this would work?

For some odd reason the first can of paint we used to paint my rocker covers (purple :D) came out reaaally dusty and sh1te. Base coat was fine but the purple was no good, not glossy at all. Little flecks of crap.. and so we ended up taking it back to metal again, and have just repainted it, this time with a new can that came out 100% better and heaps thicker.

i was thinking...to get the word nissan painted....

what about soaking something like a sponge in white paint then pressing the caliper onto in after you've completed the blue (or wateva colour) coat. Do this a few times, then maybe the last coat with a paint brush if it hasn't got a perfect finish.

Anyone think this would work?

I think you'd end up with a caliper with blotches of white paint or it would take you a very long time to apply enough paint.

I tried sanding back 'Nissan' and it didn't work for me. It was very difficult to keep an even finish but you'd get there eventually.

I tried applying paint stripper with a cotton bud and it made a real mess. Ended up having to redo that caliper.

The best result I had was by masking 'Nissan' and trimming the edges with a razor blade after reading the suggestion on here. Turned out beautiful. I'd argue even nicer than freehanding it with a small brush. Masking took ten minutes per caliper.

If you wanted white, just paint the caliper in white first, then mask, then apply the base coat and colour coat.

  • 9 months later...

Yes, the paint will come off but where do you think it'll go? Onto the pads! :)

It is very easy to remove the caliper from the wheel and paint it elsewhere. Then you'll be able to strip it back and do an effective job.

My 2.2c

you can sand back the calliper or alternativly you can get a wire brush and a drill and do it that way.Then prepsol then mask the areas dont want paint to be on.Thats teh way i did it.

I used a paint called metalcast.it turns out the best by far.But the only problem is their limited to a few colours.anodised red,blue and purple.They are all that i have seen at the local supercheap.But the trick is you must use their metalic silver basecoat to get the best finish possible.Also follow the directions.This paint only turns out well if you do as the can says :)

do you just sand it back then prime it or is there another way

I used spray-on paint stripper. You'll find it at most auto stores. Works a treat and saves messing around with brushes etc.

Trust_33 I used Metalcast too, in the anodized red. It looks very nice. Not too loud but you notice it as you walk past. Just what I was after :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...