Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My car has recently picked up a ticking noise but only when its boosting? i havent lost any power its just really annoying! anyone know what the problem is?

Do you have an electronic boost controller??? If so i bet its the valve opening and closing!

I hope that helps

Its a Blitz Dual SBC spec R, its never played up before only since installing a new HKS actuator kit??

If its the boost controller then its fine! is the ticking constant?

what sort?

the AVC-R's make a bit of noise.

could also be a gasket somewhere on the turbo end

I was also refering to the AVCR, no idea about the blitz items though

If its the boost controller then its fine! is the ticking constant?

Only when i'm accelerating and it comes on boost! driving off boost no noise.

At a guess id say its fine! expecially as its only when its on boost!

I hope that helps!

  • 4 weeks later...

Yep does sound like the solenoids of the EBC.

Does it seem louder or should I say more noticeable in say 4th or 5th ? ie driving off boost then coming on boost in these gears ?

If it is the solenoid than you shouldnt really notice it in 1st or maybe even second gear as you hit boost too quick and the exhuast/induction noises take over.

I currently have a Blitz ID3 (should use same dual solenoid) and previously had an AVCR in the car. I have to say the avcr was quite noisy compared to the blitz item but regardless the blitz makes it as well.

Just wondering if anyone has an EBC that uses a stepper motor ??

eg HKS EVC.

Interested to know if the stepper motors make any noise......

Anyways in regards to the noise, one way to "fix" it is to use rubber mounts.

A mate of mine had his AVCR rubber mounted and I couldnt hear a thing.

He had stock airbox so no almost no induction noise and his exhuast was quieter than mine.

last time my car made this ticking noise was about 2 weeks ago, found out i had a cracked fin on my turbo, need a new turbo now.....but mine was more like a whine not a tick, and only comes on at boost!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...