Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As you all know i have been plaged with lots of little problems that are really starting to shit me, now my question to you guys is should i just piss it off and upgrade to an r34 gt t

sell and upgrade

no keep it and stop bitching

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74086-should-i-sell-and-upgrade-to-r34/
Share on other sites

Yeah Andrew's got a point

If you've replaced near on everything on your car, then you could ber confident that it's all good now.

However if you want to upgrade, an R34 would be tops, I know that's what I'm getting next (Kinda sorta got one now already :D)

It's up to you, if you feel like a change, then go for it. If you feel like sticking to what you know, the go for it.

better the devil you know than the devil you dont know.

i love your car snooze. if you bought an R34, what would you want to do to it? wheels, kit, and all the other mods your current car has, right? how much would that all cost from scratch? sh*t loads. you've already got all that, why start again?

if you have the money i would :D i like my 33 but 34's are just as sexy + not as many around well at least for another year or two. PS buy the one off the guy at newgel he was selling last i heard its got some nice little mods and the paintwork is awesome BUY IT!!!

i am at a loss as what to buy next too either 34 or wrx who knows but i wont be selling for a good 2 - 3 years still

HOW DARE you say that "W" word leigh...

This is a skyline fourm..

Subarus are still nice Erica!! :stupid:

Yea, true waht most say... Why start again, you will end up loosing alot of money.

Newer car yes... but you already have a sweat looking car.

Manual 34s are not really coming down in price at all. Basic one in good condition are still ~35k. Another point is that many of the parts are actually interchangeable so you could possibly return yours to stock? eg Front Mount and piping for 33 will fit a 34.

I love my 34, I still look forward to the start and end of the day when I get to drive to/from work.

I really don't understand the no wing look on the 34s, can't say I'm a fan at all.

you should sell it and get like a VL cause they is sick n shit. 1st mod you will need to do b4 you drive it anywhere is put a monsta tacho on. Even if its stock and auto. 2nd you will need to put a 4X4 lift kit in the front and remove the springs from the back and trim the bump stops so your exhaust just clears the ground. 3rd mod is the numba pl8ts. They need to be DISNEYLAND. lol

Im bored and cant sleep.

*SIGH*

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...