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Another Dyno thread

Roy

By Roy,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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nedb Proficient

nedb

Posted
Posted
i'd be keen to see a dyno graph of your auto R32 making 160rwkw ;)

i made 132rwkw with the auto rb20 having 3"dump/front/cat-back (stock cat), FMIC, 12psi, chipped ecu (AFRs were 10-10.5 though), rb26 cams, and panel filter with CAI

i thought the auto robbed some power out of it personally but you seemed to do nicely!

EDIT: actually i just noticed in another thread that you have the MV automatics shift kit in your auto box as well... was this put in after the 140rwkw run?  

would this have contributed to the dyno figure or is it purely gear changes as the name would imply?

To be precise, it was 167.8 rwkw. I don't have the dyno sheet scanned yet, but I'll post it up as soon as I do.

The shift kit only affects the gear changes.

I had 137 rwkw, before the shift kit and intercooler, but it was running very lean. Once I changed the pump the A/F ratios went to 11.5 and 130 rwkw. 144rwkw was the figure after the intercooler. All the above figures are on stock boost.

Who chipped your Auto ECU? What was done on it? Fuel, ignition? That is my next mod but I'm unsure if it will affect gear changes!

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WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted
To be precise, it was 167.8 rwkw. I don't have the dyno sheet scanned yet, but I'll post it up as soon as I do.

The shift kit only affects the gear changes.

I had 137 rwkw, before the shift kit and intercooler, but it was running very lean. Once I changed the pump the A/F ratios went to 11.5 and 130 rwkw. 144rwkw was the figure after the intercooler. All the above figures are on stock boost.

Who chipped your Auto ECU? What was done on it? Fuel, ignition? That is my next mod but I'm unsure if it will affect gear changes!

i had it done in melb at a place called chipcontrol (www.chipcontrol.com.au)...

it was written by someone else for someone else's car (the guy who's car it was written for was shivam, called 'deorbit' on the forums). he told me about it and it only cost $150 to get it done, so meh. obviously it was written for a different setup that's why i run rich

shifts have not changed at all, and as far as i was aware the auto features are not affected by the chip, only fuel and ignition or whatever it is written for...

hmmmm so you're making good power with the auto box, what's up with my setup?

nedb Proficient

nedb

Posted
Posted

I wasn't happy with my setup until I got it tuned.

The mods are: pod filter, full 3 " exhaust, R33 turbo and intercooler. 144 rwkw on stock boost. The car has done 155K kms and it's Auto. I don't belive the auto box loses much power compared to manual.

Currently I'm running 14 psi and 167.8.

Don't forget, Dyno is only a tuning tool. In a week or 2 I will take my car to Croydon for a retune and to confirm the power it's making.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

I think quite a number of cars have issues with ignition at revs higher than 4500rpm. Weak spark at more demanding rpm and load usually shows up as a flatening off of the power curve. There is not necessarily a 'miss' that gives this away, usually that occurs once the coil leakage has reached a point where you can see a little spark jumping about and there is a visable crack on the coil. Next time you change the spark plugs notice how heat effected the wiring is to the coils , it cops alot of abuse not just from the heat but also from the movement associated with plug changes. The heat makes the wiring brittle.

The other difference is the fact that a dyno does not create a rolling road environment. Where things like altitude and moving air can be faithfully replicated. More attention to how air flows into the airbox gets better results in real racing environments. Some times this is a disadvantage on the dyno when the fan doesn't get the airflow directed the same way as the cars areodynamics create at speed when air is say 'rammed' into the duct created. If your tune doesn't create this environment well enough then what might appear to be a good tune for power at the dyno with it's airflow characteristics may not suit the real world and you can easily end up with a little 'power hole' down at the track.

Fine tuning your car on the dyno is best done with the bonnet 'down'.

craz0 Proficient

craz0

Posted
Posted

Mine is a Auto and only made 120rwkw but 478Nm @ 98Km/h :confused: that was done in second with the snow button on so it started in second and stayed in second. From 65Km/h to 80Km/h it sat on 110rwkw.

A manual SS crueman was on before me and I made more talk then him :confused:

For a power run in a Auto how should you do it leave it in second and use the snow button like I did? let it run through the gears like normal, use the power button?

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted
Mine is a Auto and only made 120rwkw but 478Nm @ 98Km/h :confused: that was done in second with the snow button on so it started in second and stayed in second. From 65Km/h to 80Km/h it sat on 110rwkw.

A manual SS crueman was on before me and I made more talk then him :confused:

For a power run in a Auto how should you do it leave it in second and use the snow button like I did? let it run through the gears like normal, use the power button?

i don't know exactly...

the tuner/dyno operator should know what they are doing...

craz0 Proficient

craz0

Posted
Posted

It's all bloody confusing the dyno graph I have starts at about 31km/h and reads about 65rwkw and about 840Nm of torque, if I had a scanner I would put it up. In stead of both the torque and kw starting from the bottom the torque starts up the top and the kw starts down the bottom and the finally meat @ 98km/h where it finishes.

I took a pic of it with my dig camera to give you an idea.

knore Grand Master

knore

Posted
Posted
Mine is a Auto and only made 120rwkw but 478Nm @ 98Km/h :confused: that was done in second with the snow button on so it started in second and stayed in second. From 65Km/h to 80Km/h it sat on 110rwkw.

A manual SS crueman was on before me and I made more talk then him :confused:

For a power run in a Auto how should you do it leave it in second and use the snow button like I did? let it run through the gears like normal, use the power button?

Its sposed to be done in third, what they do is put power mode on and accelerate till it gets to 3rd then give it more throttle to hold in 3rd and rev out

but most places do it in 2nd, which i dont like all that much cos hitting redline in a selected gear gets autos very hot

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted
Mine was done in third. O/D off and accelarate till it hits the 3rd and off we go. If it drops back, start again   :rofl:

BTW. I took my car to Eastern Creek last nite and ran 14.02 @ 102.26. 60' - 2.408.

R32 Auto sedan    :rofl:

nice work! :rofl:

should start another thread for R32 auto drag times... see what others have done

what's the weight of the sedan compared to coupe?

did you stall it up before takeoff?

did you run it throught the gears, or just left it in D?

stock suspension?

much wheelspin?

Warren.

benm Grand Master

benm

Posted
Posted
BTW. I took my car to Eastern Creek last nite and ran 14.02 @ 102.26. 60' - 2.408.
Is your car grey? I was their last night, afew 32 and 33's.

You have potential for a mid 13sec pass, seeya at WSID next week :rofl:

nedb Proficient

nedb

Posted
Posted

Yeah, it's the dark grey 4 door without the front bar

It was my first time so I didn't know what to expect. First run was 14.3 and stalled up to 1000. Second and third I just wasn't ready when it turned green so ran simillar times. On the fourth run I stalled it around 2000 RPM and got 14.02. 60' is still something I need to work on and if I improve it I should be able to get into 13s with this setup.

I had it in D for all the runs with the Power mode on and O/D off. There was some wheelspin but not too much.

Unknown suspension. Possible stock (looks very high)

benm - I see you have about the same time as me but with a way better 60'. What car are you driving and how much power does it make?

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