Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pinging=detonation

It's caused when the timing (fuel/air) is too far advanced...it creates an un-even burn in the cylinder, and it can cause pitting on the surface of the pistons.

If you want to advance the timing, make sure you use PULP to get the most out of it.

There's no need to put the car on a dyno to advance the timing, go buy a timing light and do it yourself.... check what it's set at, advance it a few degrees, go for a drive.. if it doesn't ping, advance it a bit more...

...but as megs said, if it starts to ping, back it off. :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1369381
Share on other sites

If you're still running the factory ecu, there is no point to a dyno tune.

The ecu constantly tunes itself.

Your are so far off SKY031. The only time a car tunes itselfis in closed loop mode. When you reach certain parameters MAP/RPM you venture into a place called Open Loop this is where most hoons drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1383964
Share on other sites

to rob82 you are 50% correct in your statement..

the car does not tune the afr in open loop but it does muck around with the timing a little..

ie. if the car is detonating it will pull timing a little..

thats why the cars go that little bit harder after you have had the battery disconected for a bit to clear all of the long term trims..

also it would be fair to say that if you were getting the car dyno tuned you have a MAF modifier on the car.. all skylines run very ritch up high in the rpm and a bit can be gained by leaning it off..

just my $0.02

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1384307
Share on other sites

to rob82 you are 50% correct in your statement..

the car does not tune the afr in open loop but it does muck around with the timing a little..

ie. if the car is detonating it will pull timing a little..

thats why the cars go that little bit harder after you have had the battery disconected for a bit to clear all of the long term trims..

also it would be fair to say that if you were getting the car dyno tuned you have a MAF modifier on the car.. all skylines run very ritch up high in the rpm and a bit can be gained by leaning it off..

Boston if you've ever seen the primary ignigtion map (hi or low octane) you would know that the knock sensor will only pull timing out of the low rpm high Load part of the map. Nissan have obviously not done proper reaserch into constant knock sensor operatioin throughout the rev range. This is why in my opinion all nissans are rich as in standard form. Thats why nissans make great power NA or Turbo. There is so much fuel to take out and lots of timing to put in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1384954
Share on other sites

I'm not so sure it only pulls out timing from the low rpm high load parts of the map.

With the stock r32 ecu it was pulling timing out (10degree's) from as high as 4500rpm. I am 99% sure the knock sensor stops pulling timing out over 5000rpm as that is where all the timing was thrown back in and it would ping once again.

This was monitored via consult.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1385150
Share on other sites

I'm not so sure it only pulls out timing from the low rpm high load parts of the map.

 

With the stock r32 ecu it was pulling timing out (10degree's) from as high as 4500rpm. I am 99% sure the knock sensor stops pulling timing out over 5000rpm as that is where all the timing was thrown back in and it would ping once again.

This was monitored via consult.

The nissan consult cant tell you how much knock retard the ECU is pulling out or at least ours cant. Where you just watching the ignition timing. I know within the map that a value greater than 80 HEX enables the knock sensor to function and pull timing out, if you look at the map you will see. Not sure what RPM it stops working but i'm pretty sure its well before 4500 say 2500 rpm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1385264
Share on other sites

Are there benefits to getting your car tuned on a dyno if is an NA. I read that the turbo boys get heaps of power just by getting a run and tune. HOw much could you get out of an NA?

sorry if I sound a little uppety here Kor, but.....

..................if nothing else, regardless of a frickin' ECU upgrade or not or this or that or whatever......a dyno READ-OUT can give you the state of your car's power! (therefore health??)........................

by ......USING THE METHOD OF COMPARISON!! (between your car prior to 'fiddling' and post your 'fiddling' and to other cars (regardless of type!) of similar configuration. All this Just by looking at the graph they supply you.

and......how else can you get the car to phenominal speeds and under full load and have a tech/mechanic with his head still under the bonnet?

Dyno = a reporting tool! ...nothing else. Tuning is an entirely different entity.

The process just sort of happens at the same time.

It is the best way to diagnose and see if there are positive or negative responses to what the tech is trying to do for the car.

So yes!! Massive happy happy joy joys can be achieved by tuning a car via the dyno 'method'........just the pricing stinks to the standard car driver.

ahh.. that feels better.....have a great week K'!!

ps...just got my 33 (dyno tested) by MK Auto in Moorabbin....173.4rkw, with my crummy airinx pod filter.......185 with the new K&N!!!!!! No tuning required!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1385385
Share on other sites

The nissan consult cant tell you how much knock retard the ECU is pulling out or at least ours cant. Where you just watching the ignition timing. I know within the map that a value greater than 80 HEX enables the knock sensor to function and pull timing out, if you look at the map you will see. Not sure what RPM it stops working but i'm pretty sure its well before 4500 say 2500 rpm.

CAS Ignition timing was 5degree's.

133rwkw

The stock rb20det turbo's wastegate was wired all the way open.

Boost begins around 4000rpm the consult stated 28degree's ignition timing, the dip occured and the usual slight puff of smoke (detonation), looking down at the consult you can see the ignition timing drop by 10degree's and fuel richen up.

Connecting the wastegate so it made boost early had massive flat spots everywhere.

Point being the stock ecu definitely does pull timing at mid/higher rpm.

I've heard of this occuring often. Possibly reinforcing that the ecu does indeed have influence of the ign. timing at the higher rpms.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...+sensor+5000rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1385529
Share on other sites

Good point however if the dyno sheet you showed me was in 4th gear then at about 74km/hr (where the dip occurs) the rb20det would be doing about 2500-3000rpm?? It would have seen quite a substantial knock and pulled timing out. The extent at which returns from a knock event is determined by the decay factor thats why it dosen't start making power again till 86km/hr ie. it takes quite a substantial time to recovery from a knock event and the rate of acceleration of the engine is much to fast.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1385799
Share on other sites

It was an RB30DET running the stock RB20DET turbo, the turbo had its wastegate wired all the way open to prevent boost being made, even though it was wired open it still managed to make boost over 4000rpm, which is where power started to dip and carry on badly.

With the correct cas timing of 15degree's & the wastegate hooked up the dyno run looked like a roller coaster all the way from idle.

The rb30det with the rb20det turbo makes all of its boost on the dyno by 1700rpm IF the motor is loaded up from 1100rpm.

Discussion is good. ;) From what I experienced with my RB20DET ecu was that it did indeed pull timing and dip up to 4500rpm. Over 4500rpm it didn't appear to pull timing as I could see it was detonating yet the ecu wasn't pulling timing.

The dyno run I attached was the final cleanest dyno run, from memory it was actually dipping at 3500rpm. It was only 1 dip unlike the other runs that dipped from basically idle right up until ~4500rpm prior to pulling cas timing back to 5degree's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1385815
Share on other sites

Had another look at my GTR timing map, 4000 is the standard limit for the knock sensor to operate. So if it had a large knock at say 3800 it may not recover fully, as in pulling out 0 degree's timing until say 4500. Still hacking the ECU for the knock recovery rate (if there is one). I know there is a max knock limit. I might be thinking that the MEC-R(**** forgot number 215-maybe) is actually smarter than what it actually is, it is over 15 years old after all. Where do you work cubes?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1389552
Share on other sites

So does this all mean that you can or can't tune an NA with no ecu?

hey davor, hows things mate?

this thread is all over the shop whith things i don't understand (and haven't really read), but back to dynoing...

when i did this with mine, they firstly put the car on the dyno and warmed up the tyres.

then the tuner went through the gears for a few mins to check the condition of the gearbox.

then he gave it a base power run.

then he jumped out and played around with the timing

then he gave it another power run

then he played with boost a little (i know you can't do this with your car)

all up with interruptions my car was on the dyno for about 2.5hours and i paid $110 for an hours worth of dyno time :(

so back to your question...

can they 'tune' the car?

to me, 'tune' means change the ignition maps or AFRs, and no they cannot do this unless you have some sort of aftermarket ECU or interceptor device

but you can get them to tweak the timing a bit, assess the health of your engine and gearbox, and give you a nice printout of your power! its a great way to tell if your car is in good condition or on its last legs...

if you really want a bit of a tune you can get an SAFC (do a search if you don't know what it is) and they could play around with AFRs a bit

good luck!

Warren.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74293-dyno-tune/#findComment-1389668
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
×
×
  • Create New...