Jump to content
SAU Community

help needed, car overheating

ZILR-34

By ZILR-34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ZILR-34 Experienced

ZILR-34

Posted
Posted

hi guys

i have a R32 gts-t i have put on a r33 turbo on the other day and today when i toke it for a small spin around the block i saw the temp was all the way to High, i put coolent in it and new oil b4 i toke it for a spin. i also filled up the turbo wit oil b4 i put i connected the oil line to it.

the question i want to know how many litres of oil do i need to put in coz my guess is there is about 1 litre of oil in the turbo itself and i put 3litres in the engine.

also will the car overheat bcoz of this problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74317-help-needed-car-overheating/
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

You have to bleed the air out the system.

The R32's have two bleed points, one for the heater that is T'd off the top heater hose near the drivers side.

You can bleed the plenum bolt as much as you want but it will still overheat IF you don't also bleed the heater hose.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
the question i want to know how many litres of oil do i need to put in coz my guess is there is about 1 litre of oil in the turbo itself and i put 3litres in the engine.
Check the dipstick - that will tell you whether you have enough oil in the engine.
ZILR-34 Experienced

ZILR-34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
make sure absolutely no oil or coolant leeks -  

radiator and overflow bottle full??

any more heat/steam from bay or only the stock water temp gauge reading too high too early??

well lots of steam was comin from the engine bay from the turbo side. but i had split some oil on the turbo so when it heated up it could of made the steam 'i could be worng' the overflow bottle is half way, after driving it for not even 5mins the stock temp gauge in the car was showing high

NZM.031 Grand Master

NZM.031

Posted
Posted

you will smell oil, and it will smoke, its a smell that doesnt disappear in a hurry.

the bleed points, one will be at the front of the plenum and one at the top radiator hose i think. they are 10mm bolts that have a little yellow sticker near them.... undo them both, when coolant starts coming out put that one back in, then when it starts coming out the other, put the bolt back in that.

you may have a leaking water line to the turbo, did you check the washers?? maybe you dropped one or something. did you bend the pipe or man-handle it in any way??

cheers

Linton

ZILR-34 Experienced

ZILR-34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yea i have checked everything on the turbo side, i have also got sum of my mate to go over it as well. they say its fine all washers etc.. is okay. i replaced the thermostat it seems to be okay now it dosent overheat but the temp gauge in the car still goes abit high. ill try bleeding the water system n ill see how i go

thanks everyone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • The Bogan
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...