Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys ive got a few mods in mind next its time to get something really expensive so ive got the choice of...

-boost controller Blitz SBc ID 3 i have in mind

-Wheels

-intercooler

-exhaust

-bodykit

- or i could just get a heap of little things

this is for my r32 gtst i was Originally thinkin on getting the boost controller because the 32 needs that xrtra bit of boost to put you back in the seat a bit more like the 33s but now im thinking either intercooler or wheels

thanks for the help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74736-what-mod-next/
Share on other sites

is your turbo stock? might want to look at replacing it since the stock ones can't take too much boost. Even if its a cheap one with steel compressor and turbine blades, atleast then you won't have to worry about it blowing up :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74736-what-mod-next/#findComment-1371844
Share on other sites

yep, there pretty much all the same (they handle about 10-12psi max). check out: http://www.monstaperformance.com/ they have a TamKO T3/ T4OE 500hp turbo going for $800 - much better than the stock one, then you could run as much boost as you want with it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74736-what-mod-next/#findComment-1371904
Share on other sites

Don't even bother with looking at an upgraded turbo until you have done the basics:

* Full turbo-back exhaust

* FMIC

* Fuel pump

* Injectors

etc etc

Just going out now and bolting on a bigger turbo with what you have (or don't have by the sounds of it) is going to do nothing but burn a whole in your wallet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74736-what-mod-next/#findComment-1372367
Share on other sites

definately finish off your exhaust first. I duno if there is much point getting just an FMIC. I would only get one if i already had an ebc or was gona get one at the same time. see how you like it will a full zorts, FMIC, boost up to like maybe 12 psi. I doubt you will be maxing out your injectors or fuel pump with the amount of power those mods will provide. If after that you feel its not enough then look into turbo upgrades, like a 2530 or even a rb25 turbo if your budget is tight. be aware that with a turbo upgrade you will likely have to do injectors and pump to get the full benefit out of it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74736-what-mod-next/#findComment-1374919
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...