Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The car..

IMG_40961.jpg

The plate..

licence_plate_st34lth.png

Sure, it's just a crappy photochopped version of something I made up on the US Acme License Maker site, but as we speak the plates are paid for and in the making. son of rajab know why it takes 4-5 weeks for them to be done, but they do say 'WA' means 'wait a while'!!

Have ordered polycarb plates, white on black. Slimline front, full size rear. I'm kinda pleased with it myself. Course, you all might have other ideas.. lemme hear em!!

BTW, Paul- these should be on the car before Auto Salon rolls around. ;P

Oh, get this. These things cost $395 up front in polycarbonate. Same plates in aluminium are $290. Fair enough. Kinda. BUT!! If, for some ungodly reason you decided you wanted to put your actual name, like Tim or Dave or Boris on the plate, the price inexplicably jumps to $695!! W-T-F-?-? O_o

Needless to say, my name isn't 'St34lth'!! :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74793-new-vanity-plates-comments-pls/
Share on other sites

I guess cuz it's all black etc, plus the exhaust is pretty quiet until you sink the boot in. I figure on some dark rims to finish it off sooner or later too. No prizes for guessing why the '34' thing, of course..

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...