Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:flamed: This problem has me a little worried and confused... I just got my new car, R32 GTS-t (HOORAY!) and it is overheating :P , at first it wouldn't do it all the time, but now it does... its an 89' and has done 84000 k's. It doesnt feel down on power, doesn't blow smoke or have water coming from the exhaust, no coolant in oil, or bubbles in coolant. It will get really hot sometimes...which has me very concerned :warning: ... but then it will drop all of a sudden... which makes me think it is a f***ed thermostat. I know i shouldn't drive it, but i have to get to work, I get the car into speedworks on monday so they should diagnose the problem... hopefully. What do you guys reckon it could be?

Also, after the cooling issue is sorted of course, what do you guys reckon I should do to the car first? front mount, suspension, brakes... It already has an HKS pod and Kakimoto exhaust... the rest is stock... i think

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74818-r32-cooling-issues/
Share on other sites

you have beed air out? top of intake manifold on rb20/25

Is that the little screw with a yellow "never open when hot" label on the inlet manifold closest to the front end of the car? What do I do, just take it out and put it back in or do I have to run the engine with it off?

Dammit! Shes a still gettin hot. I took the bleed valve off last night, then went for a burn, it was good, then the heat just started to rise, so I limped home hoping it wouldnt get too hot. Thanks for your help anyway GDZ1LA :( Anyone else have any ideas.

Still I may not have done it right and GDZ1LA could be right. Any help welcome.

9.5 times out of 10, if you're not using water, of have none of the other symtoms you say you've checked, you have a partially blocked radiator core. To flush it properly, needs a bit of explanation. Needs to be "reverse flushed." Take it to radiator repairer. They have right equipment and shpuld'nt be very costly. If you MUST do it yourself, I'll [reluctantly] try to write a fair description.

This is all good news as far as im concerned... they are minor repair/replace jobs compared to replacing a head or gasket.. cheaper too. By all rights if I had a cracked head/ or gasket damage, i'd be experiencing a major lack of power right? as well as milky oil, possibly steamy, smokey exhaust yeh?

To do it right, reverse flushing in car takes a bit of explaining, so I thought, seeing it's so easy to remove radiator, why not do that, turn it upside down, and use as much water pressure as you can, from bottom to top, allowing the water to escape, alternatively, from the filler neck, and the top hose connection point. That would do a pretty good job.

Put the water hose in the bottom radiator hose point, and seal it as much as possible, so that all the pressutr water has to travel up through the core to get to top tank. This is the opposite direction of flow to when radiator is in car, which is why it is more effective in removing blockages than flushing top to bottom.

ahHHhhh HUH!! mine is doing that as well! the temp gauge is reading just a bit above half, is this actualli normal/acceptable? it never rises above this point and isnt using any water, even after lots of hard driving, so would this be just a partially blocked radiator i presume?

just dont like looking at it so high , when my bro's R32 is reading below half!

thanks for any advice guys.

ps- josh what colour if your 32? seems like there is quite a R32 "population" explosion in perth ;) mines black coupe, and black sedan for my bro.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...