Jump to content
SAU Community

CLUTCH PEDAL ASSEMBLY BRACKET? Xpert help plz!

KRiMiNaL
 Share

Recommended Posts

KRiMiNaL Community Regular

KRiMiNaL

Posted
Posted

Underneath the dash just on top of the clutch there is a bracket that holds the clutch. When i push the clutch in you can actually see it moving is this a big problem? Can somebody plz look and see if there bracket moves or is mine screwed? And whats that bracket called, i need to source a new one and is it hard to change do i need to remove the whole dash? Im told beacuase I have a heavy duty clutch thats why it came loose to much stress. And would anybody have an average price on what its worth.

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

Same here. I have a heavy twin plate and it ended up mangling the bracket so far the clutch pedal sat on the fire wall and I had to pull it up with my foot first to press the clutch in.

Apparently a common prob with heavy pedal effort clutches.

Not sure with your car but with the HR31 its made from thin metal with just a few spot welds here and there. Got another one out of a Pintara and it was welded up properley with extra plate steel reinforcement. I would just get one in good nick from a wrecker and reinforce it as it will only happen again.

The dash didnt "have" to come out but it was of those " get out you f@cking little c@nt of a thing" type of jobs.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

It's a common occurance, I have broken the one in the R32GTST race car. It has an OS Giken twin plate in it, so not excessively heavy. Broke through the spot welds. The first sign was long pedal, needed to be depressed further to declutch. It just got slowly worse until no clutch.

Not only is it hard to get out, it is efen uncomfortable lying upside down, with the steering wheel in your crutch, the seat base in your crack, your feet on the head rest and your head under the brake pedal. Talk about rush of blood to the brain.....:headspin:

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

yer mine snapped as i pulled into work....luckily.

Looking back i replaced the clutch master cylinder, and the pedal was squeeking inside the car. Thought nothing of it. Clutch then seemed to play up now and then in car parks, thought nothing of it. Then i remember some clunky gearchanges, thought it was the gb cos it needs bearings.

Then as i pulled into work, i heard a small pop. Then 2 seconds later, it popped again and the clutch went to the floor. :D

Now i got a new clutch pedal box sitting here ready to go in. I was going to make a new pedal box out of some thicker 3 or 5mm steel, but ill just reinforce the new pedal box with steel around the 4 spot welds that hold it together !!!

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

No. Two bolts in engine bay on Clutch master cylinder. Then one looking straight up from the clutch pedal. You need a pillow or something on to lie on, then look up where the clutch pedal is..........SK described it exactly :

Not only is it hard to get out, it is even uncomfortable lying upside down, with the steering wheel in your crutch, the seat base in your crack, your feet on the head rest and your head under the brake pedal. Talk about rush of blood to the brain.....
JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
Posted

I'll tell you as well what makes the whole process a heap easier ...

If you don't use the air vent near the drivers door much, just rip out the tube underneath the steering rack (or maybe it goes over, I can't remember as I pulled it out so long ago).

It makes the whole procedure so much easier as you can get to the nut on the pedal box with a socket and an extension :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...