Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Ive done a search on this subject but couldn't find anything.

I've come to a fork on the road with my skyline. Do i get a Power FC or not?

Currently i have on my RB20:

185rwkw @ 1bar

R34 GTT turbo

Walbro 255 pump

Filter

Bov

2.5 turbo back exhaust

Apexi EBC

Trust V-SPL FMIC

Chipped/Remapped ECU with maps for R33 turbo

If i install a Power FC how much power will i gain?

Is it worth spending $2000 to buy/install/tune?

Any help would be lovely :rofl:

Cheers

Sean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75198-to-pfc-or-not-to-pfc-rb20/
Share on other sites

How you will gain will depend on how well the stock ecu has been remaped.

You most probably won't gain anything up top, maybe a little as it will be able to tuned a little closer to the edge as the PFC has a knock sensor readout.

Mid range is possibly where you will pick up some power, but once again it depends on how well it was tuned with the stock ecu.

I would probably stick with what you have now if you are not planning on upgrading the turbo at a later date.

what an idiot, i know that you will only get a few kw's to begin with but if you continue modding it will be the thing letting u down in the end!

Hey...idiot is a bit harsh:)

I think the previous owner was looking for an improvement whislt keeping it nice and quiet, ie not drony:)

narc up boys, i would like to know aswell because i just purchased an rb20det power fc for $1099 my 32 has high flowed turbo, hks front mount, 14psi, bosch 040, 3.5inch exhaust all the way through, either gtr or rx7 550cc injectors will be going in soon, and going to get it tuned at 18psi...have never had the computer tuned so hopefully it will have stacks more power when i get it tuned...hoping around 40-50hp...let us know what u think

If you want the extra 40-50hp your gonna need the stroker crank i just bought. Its custom made from a crew of brilliantly gifted engineers in the former Soviet Republic...liek the GTRcrank it will need some clearancing of the block, but she will make the power im after:thumbsup:

http://www.bath.ac.uk/~ccsshb/12cyl/rta96c_crank.jpg[/img

If you want the extra 40-50hp your gonna need the stroker crank i just bought. Its custom made from a crew of brilliantly gifted engineers in the former Soviet Republic...liek the GTRcrank it will need some clearancing of the block, but she will make the power im after:thumbsup:

rta96c_crank.jpg

...lol as Cubes said, depends on how good your current tune is i suppose:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...