Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks guys, i'll get the hammers out tomorrow!

Please Picture Document this brake swap for us, I REALLY want to know how its done :(

i've only started on the drivers side so far so i'll take pics when i do the other side, they'll be from my phone so not the best pics

If you are using hammers on the tops of the joints, leave nuts on or you'll f*** the threads.

machg

what your saying is leave the bolts loose so the bit i'm trying to remove can move just enough to loosen but not dig into the threads...

Yeah the easiest way is to slug it with a hammer and loosen the tapered joint. As what's been said, put a nut on the thread to protect it so the hammer doesn't damage it. I always find it useful to also pull the arm down, usually comes out easier this way.

got it off thanks guys, might need to machine the s-13 hubs a hairs width to let them slide on a bit deeper just so i can tighten it enough to put the pin back in...

thanks guys..

Machine what to tighten up to what??? You've lost me :headspin:

Machine what to tighten up to what???  You've lost me  :headspin:

the steering arm bolt and the hole on the s-13 hub dont match, the hole is just to small to let it slide down enough to put the pin in place, i've threaded the nut trying to tighten it so i'll get it rethreaded or a new steering rack (need power steering anyway).

I think you will find that the s13 runs a tapered tie rod where the r30 runs a straight one. So they will need to be drilled out, I reamed mine for a nice tight fit.

it might be the other way round as the arm on the hub has just stopped, leaving about 3mm of thread showing...i might just get a grinder drill bit and trial and error it till it fits. i'll need a tap and die set too to fix the thread ;)

the best way to release the tire rod end from the stearing arm is this:

grab 2 hammers and swing the both athe the same time either side of the steeering arm... leving the nut on but loosely. you need to hit it with both hammers simultanisly in order to shock the taper locking the tire rod to steering arm, releasing the taper. may need a couple of hits, but this should do the trick. by leaving the nut on, its stops the tire rod end hittinfg the ground then you can undo the nut and remove the arm

i have done many a joint before and its worked a treat.... ( shown to me by my motor mechanic)........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...