Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a questio for all of you guys who drive R32s. Is it a viable option for someone on a budget? i will have no more then $30k to spend on a car, i am thinking about importing R32 GTR. should fit my budget. but the question is, what is the general condition you get for a 32 model? i mean the car is arount 13-15 years old, so it is ...old! I dont want to buy a car and spend more money fixing it. i know there is always risk of something going wrong, even with brend new cars, but generally speaking. hope my question makes sence!

Could everyone please put down there personal experiences with imported R's?

Cheers, Vlad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75417-r32-gtr-impression/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Who has 10k spare?? YOU DO!

If you only spend $20K on the car, you have $10K spare don't you?

You can easily get an R32 GTR in the country and on the road for less than $20K. In pretty nice looking condition too. There are heaps on J-Spec for around $17-$18k landed and complied.

Then you get it, compression test it and do what you gotta do. For the extra $10K you got, you could have a nice reliable example. Just don't go for power before making sure its got good cooling and and stuff.

$2500 45 mins after picking up a car that was already here. Clutch died when i went to fill up with petrol. Hadnt even tried launching it. I think the previous owner did some huge launches while the bank cheque was clearing.

Fast forward 3 months and I find out that i have very little compression in the 6th cylinder (about 1/3 of what the others were reading). I am spending 10k for the bottom end rebuild and strengthening.

My car has been off the road since the begining of Jan. Its been out of action longer than its been on the roads. All this because the previous owner was a tight ass and did an el cheapo patch job. He also lied about parts that were on the car.

So, be prepared for worst case scenario. Not all GTR's have problems. Some are in pretty good condition. When you import, its pretty much luck of the draw. I got mine RACV checked (which is a load of crap in my opinion) to find out any and all issues. If you buy one from here (Australia) then you will be paying more but at least you could take it to your mechanic (which is the best way) to get it fully checked out. Compression tests are your friend!

Remember, you dont have to buy 89 models. There are a few later models R32 GTRs for sale for aorund the same price. Just be patient.

Day I picked mine up (92 model, got it back in 2003) it blew one of the turbos... put HKS 2530's on as they wernt much more than rebuilt highflows at the time. Had it 2 days and the gearbox went bang and one of the valve guides had snapped scoring a piston and bore so it needed a rebuild.

Spent ridiculous amounts of money on the car bringing it up to standard since.

They do require some money and alot of care to keep them in good condition, but are absolutely awesome cars.

so what should i do? if i do decide to import one, which is a prefered way for me, should i take it to a mechanic right away and get it all checked out? like compression test, maybe take the head off and have a good look, check turbos? would that keep me on a safer side?

man, it is very tempting to get a GTR, but so far only people with more or less painful experiences have replied, so that is putting me down just a bit! :looney:

IMHO you are better off paying a little more for a better car than buying the cheapest R32 you can find. Don't get fixated on a $20 grand mark. $20 grand GT-R's do exist, but by and large they are not pretty. Budget about $25k for a goodun & look after it. Take time finding it & make sure you get it looked at by someone who understands them.

By the way - parts and gear are not necessarily that expensive. Costs rise because people mostly want all the good gear going in when they rebuilt engines etc. You don't for the sake of the argument have to put forged pistons in a rebuilt RB26.

Also, running costs are alot more than for an ordinary car. 98 octane will be about 10% more expensive per litre, you will use much more of it, tyres are more expensive, synthetic lubricants more expensive, as is insurance etc etc etc.

Having said that - a GT-R is probably going to be the best car you will ever own. Certainly mine is. I have had it two years now & no engine rebuilds, no gearbox replacements, just the normal servicing requirements. The only money spent on upgrades/replacements is because I wanted it to go harder.

so what should i do? if i do decide to import one, which is a prefered way for me, should i take it to a mechanic right away and get it all checked out? like compression test, maybe take the head off and have a good look, check turbos? would that keep me on a safer side?

man, it is very tempting to get a GTR, but so far only people with more or less painful experiences have replied, so that is putting me down just a bit! :looney:

Unless you can get one in under RAWS/SEVS you are basically too late to import one. The 15 year rule is gone.

A compression test is not a bad idea.

Don't take the head off it - you don't need to.

Stock turbos are cheap (a few hundred dollars each) so you are better to concentrate on the engine than the turbos.

Not sure why people with good experiences keep quiet about it - but there are plenty out there.

Also, be aware that has been in Oz for a reasonable length of time is likely to have had things fixed. Buying a car like this means you don't have to fix everything yourself - stuff is already done.

so what should i do? if i do decide to import one, which is a prefered way for me, should i take it to a mechanic right away and get it all checked out? like compression test, maybe take the head off and have a good look, check turbos? would that keep me on a safer side?

man, it is very tempting to get a GTR, but so far only people with more or less painful experiences have replied, so that is putting me down just a bit! :looney:

Once you have imported it, you own it, good or bad.

If your at all concerned about that then suggest you only buy one already here and get it checked by a competent w/shop who are familiar with them.

We are based in WA and see GTR's all the time here and there are still some good ones come in. Not many, but a few. Our price for a full inspection including cylinder leakage and compression test is $180.

BTW, the 89 import rule is closed now and all future ones will have to be near stock plus compliancing will be more expensive.

Makes the ones already here a lot more attractive now.

Cheers

Ken

i agree with djr81....however with mine, I was told that engine was rebuilt, gearbox rebuilt, and had a new clutch. As it turns out, clutch was reco'd, engine wasnt rebuilt but more patched up...which made the problem worse, and so far so good with the gearbox. If they say its been fixed, its not such a bad idea to check where and when it got fixed, then you could simply call the place up and enquire about it. This however is not really neccessary. Its just an extra precaution. You dont need to pull the head off to check what the deal is within the block. Compression and leak down tests are the best ways of finding out if the motor has any issues. Like djr81 said, its better to take the car to a place that knows GTRs than just your average mechanic.

Yeah, plenty of 89 GTRs already in the country, with punks trying to profiteer off them!  Try the private sale, but insist on a compression test etc.  It's like importing but without the waiting!

Not everyone trying to sell a car is trying to profiteer...

There are some, but you only have to ask a couple of straight forward questions to figure it out.

On the other hand there are also alot of people trying to talk down the prices & the desirability of the GT-R's. Their motives are less straightforward...

Buying a Skyline is not inherently different from buying any other car. You need to know what you are looking at and be realistic with your expectations.

Not everyone trying to sell a car is trying to profiteer...

There are some, but you only have to ask a couple of straight forward questions to figure it out.

On the other hand there are also alot of people trying to talk down the prices & the desirability of the GT-R's.  Their motives are less straightforward...

Buying a Skyline is not inherently different from buying any other car.  You need to know what you are looking at and be realistic with your expectations.

Perhaps not all are trying to profiteer. But there's far too many 89 GTRs that are *just registered*. Connect the dots. If they bought for themselves they wouldn't be trying to sell 2 weeks after it clears the compliance workshop.

Perhaps not all are trying to profiteer.  But there's far too many 89 GTRs that are *just registered*.  Connect the dots.  If they bought for themselves they wouldn't be trying to sell 2 weeks after it clears the compliance workshop.

I agree. Good questions to ask are:

Why did you buy it?

How long have you had it?

Why are you selling it?

If you elicit honest answers then you are probably half way there.

Here's the typical ad I'm talking about (although not a GTR):

Just landed - this r32 GTST skyline has seeminly high klms ( 210K klms showing) but was converted from non turbo to turbo so it is likely that the engine and gearbox have not travelled this distance. car has minor dents and scratches but this is a bargain opportunity to get into such a car for such a cheap price. also has 2 deck CD system and sports exhaust. compliance and RWC not included. no offers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...