Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

upgrading my turbo soon, need your help guys!

I've got 2 options (HKS turbos):

GTRS

or

GT2835

what im after from the car would be for occasional track use, will not be changing internals (yet) so i wont go over that limit... but may also change internals some time in the future (wont be anytime soon). Even if i was wanting more power, it probably wont be more than 350rwkw.

thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75560-turbos-turbos-turbos/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

LOL i said no more than 35rwkw... which means it would most proly be less than that and it wont be done anytime soon aswell. im currently not planning on changin internals, but i would like to leave the option of going further just incase in the future i want more lol

280rwkw sounds reasonable lol

Ammm AFAIK,

There basically the same turbo dude.

The GTRS was released later and has basically the same wheels as the GT2835. The only difference was the GTRS has a smaller compressor cover. Designed to be used as a direct easy replacement to a lot of nissan turbo's.

That said the gt2835 should net more power based on the larger cover.

Neither will make 350rkw. Ther are rated at 400 ps(give or take depending on models). So about 250rwkw is realistic.

Actually the main difference between the GTRS and the GT2835R's is the turbine . Both of these turbo's use varying trims (52T - 56T) of the GT35 series compressor which is 71.1mm OD .

The GTRS uses a 76 trim version of the 53.85mm NS111 turbine in a .64 ARR GT28 turbine housing . The 2835's use a Garrett hybrid turbine that's actually a modified GT30 turbine . These start life as a 60mm UHP (ultra high pressure ratio) turbine which is factory cropped down to 56.6mm OD and is about the turbine size limit of the GT28 exhaust housing - without totally killing the nozzle section . They are made in 84 and 90 trim and have .64 and .86 housings to suit .

All of this was a bit of a desperate by Garrett to fill the void between the 53.85 and 60mm turbines - in other words too much turbine inlet (back pressure) and not enough shaft torque for the larger trim GT35 compressor wheels . Note that HKS uses the smallest compressor trim (52) in the GTRS with the small turbine . The hybrid turbine is a bit of a dog because the hub section is a bit big (restrictive) and heavy for the length of the blades , GT28 housing really a bit small as well .

For an engine needing a T3 exhaust flange there are few GT28 housing options ie the .64 from the HKS GT2530 or the expensive .68 and .87 from the 2835 Pro S .

In my opinion the Garrett GT3071R is a better bet , it uses the non bastardised GT30 turbine with the same GT35 56 trim compressor as the 2835 . If you need an integral waste gate HKS do a T3 flanged .68 and .87 version for their GT3037 Pro S turbos which you can buy seperately . If you look at the Garrett Catalogue PDF it shows the 3071R CHRA and a couple of compressor housing options .

Cheers A .

Actually the main difference between the GTRS and the GT2835R's is the turbine . Both of these turbo's use varying trims (52T - 56T) of the GT35 series compressor which is 71.1mm OD .  

The GTRS uses a 76 trim version of the 53.85mm NS111 turbine in a .64 ARR GT28 turbine housing . The 2835's use a Garrett hybrid turbine that's actually a modified GT30 turbine . These start life as a 60mm UHP (ultra high pressure ratio) turbine which is factory cropped down to 56.6mm OD and is about the turbine size limit of the GT28 exhaust housing - without totally killing the nozzle section . They are made in 84 and 90 trim and have .64 and .86 housings to suit .  

All of this was a bit of a desperate by Garrett to fill the void between the 53.85 and 60mm turbines - in other words too much turbine inlet (back pressure) and not enough shaft torque for the larger trim GT35 compressor wheels . Note that HKS uses the smallest compressor trim (52) in the GTRS with the small turbine . The hybrid turbine is a bit of a dog because the hub section is a bit big (restrictive) and heavy for the length of the blades , GT28 housing really a bit small as well .  

For an engine needing a T3 exhaust flange there are few GT28 housing options ie the .64 from the HKS GT2530 or the expensive .68 and .87 from the 2835 Pro S .  

In my opinion the Garrett GT3071R is a better bet , it uses the non bastardised GT30 turbine with the same GT35 56 trim compressor as the 2835 . If you need an integral waste gate HKS do a T3 flanged .68 and .87 version for their GT3037 Pro S turbos which you can buy seperately . If you look at the Garrett Catalogue PDF it shows the 3071R CHRA and a couple of compressor housing options .  

Cheers  A .

:confused: shit.....alot of things there that i dont understand lol but thx for the info! (dont know much about turbos =()

:confused:  shit.....alot of things there that i dont understand lol but thx for the info! (dont know much about turbos =()

My 20 cents....

There is a huge difference between a 250 rwkw turbo and a 350 rwkw turbo. You could stick the 350 rwkw turbo on and keep the boost low for 250 rwkw, but it will be as laggy as hell. People tolerate laggy when they have 350 rwkw, but you will have laggy and only 250 rwkw, not so appealing.

So choose, it's either a 250 rwkw turbo or a 350 rwkw turbo and they are not the same turbo.;)

SydneyKid which do you think is better of for occasional track use? i guess i prefer response as to top hp. hmmm......

I have no personal experience with either turbo, we find the GCG ball bearing high flow to be a great all round turbo, suitable for road, drag or circuit. We have a couple of RB25's with 260/265rwkw and both have more power everywhere than standard. That's makes a great package for circuit work.:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...