Jump to content
SAU Community

RB26DETT throttle body and plenum adapter to suit RB25DET R33 and R34

Trent aka AutObarn
 Share

Recommended Posts

Trent aka AutObarn Apprentice

Trent aka AutObarn

Posted
Posted

This adapter allows rb26 throttle bodys and plenum to be attached to rb25 head. This is a BLITZ part develoved for NOMUKEN and his d1 R34. ABE his mechanic also has on on his RB25 and it show a peak gain on 35kw on std engine and marked inprovement in response with no loss of of low end power or torque.

Base main flange, RB25 side (12mm Aluminum) X 1

・ Base main flange, RB26 side (12mm Aluminum) X 1

・ Throttle position sensor adaptor X 1

・ Sub-throttle adaptor X 1

・ AAC valve adaptor & extension hose X 1

・ Set of installation bolts X 1

Did a group buy for a Melb/wshop only 2 of 6 left.

$1399

shonen Grand Master

shonen

Posted
Posted

Are these a direct bolt on for the neo engine ?

I did some research on the Trust/Greddy plenums and they do not make one for the neo and instead they modify the cylinder head by putting new threads in it to make the R33 RB25 fit.

I dont have that kind of cash now (ok I do but other things need to addressed first :cheers: ) but if they are a direct bolt on fit and if you would be able to source them sometime down the track then I would definetely be PMing you to place an order.

Trent aka AutObarn Apprentice

Trent aka AutObarn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Gauranteed, check out autosalon option mag two issues ago dyno tests in there. why is there always some random with no clue posting about something they know nothing about? :chairshot

Trent aka AutObarn Apprentice

Trent aka AutObarn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Are these a direct bolt on for the neo engine ?

I did some research on the Trust/Greddy plenums and they do not make one for the neo and instead they modify the cylinder head by putting new threads in it to make the R33 RB25 fit.

I dont have that kind of cash now (ok I do but other things need to addressed first :cheers: ) but if they are a direct bolt on fit and if you would be able to source them sometime down the track then I would definetely be PMing you to place an order.

i can order them as required.

2rismo Grand Master

2rismo

Posted
Posted
ABE his mechanic also has on on his RB25 and it show a peak gain on 35kw on std engine and marked inprovement in response with no loss of of low end power or torque.

My guess is that ABE's standard engine doesn't have standard everything?!?!?

Can you post a scan of the magazine article?

Adrian

StockyMcStock Proficient

StockyMcStock

Posted
Posted

35kw gain from ONLY a different plenum? remember at full throttle the fact that there is six of them does not matter because they are fully open. the fact that the runners are larger doesn't matter much either, as the 25 head inlets will still pose the exact same restriction as they did before.

from a fluid dynamics point of view, 35kw gain is highly unlikely. possible on a very highly strung race engine however. if that's the case, say so.

Trent aka AutObarn Apprentice

Trent aka AutObarn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

as if im gonna waste my time on a couple of wankers, it has been a feature in 2 recent option mags. Waste your own time.

AS FOR THOSE WHO HAVE A CLUE AND ARE INTERESTED I WILL INCLUDE A COPY OF IT WITH THE ANSWER TO YOUR ENQUIRIES.

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

Closed.

If you want to trade here Trent, you can become a registered trader and pay to advertise like every other business trader does.

Feel free to pm me for more information

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...