Jump to content
SAU Community

does any one have a plastic aftermarket frount bar

Let Me Drive

By Let Me Drive,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Let Me Drive Mentor

Let Me Drive

Posted
Posted

Befor anyone gets upset i have serched and spent many hours on the net looking and got no where.

Im after a plastic frount bumper an after market one,

I have a R33 gts-t and have the origanl M-spec one on at the moment and wish to have a plastic one due to where i live and how much abuse the origanl one can take.

So the question is where and how much to get a after market plastic frount bar in any style 400R/ trial/ do-luck any, just want to know where to get it and how much?

so if anyone has one or knows where to get one info would be great.

i have rung jetspeed and other companys but no good.

inark Grand Master

inark

Posted
Posted

OMG U TOOL USE THE SEARCH!!! FFS OMG OMFG GG!!! lol jk

u really want a plastic one? i dont think anyone makes em anymore... most japanese brand bars are FRP - Fibreglass Reinforced Plastic

Its just as good... u can twist sideskirts around and they dont brake

If you want something like that u better have some good cash saved up.

CNR33 Community Regular

CNR33

Posted
Posted
no wait... its not FRp... whats the other one they use that twists??

plastic? :wassup:

Sorry Scott, I was in the same boat, did a bit of hunting when i was looking for a new front bar, no luck, pretty much everything is fibreglass

inark Grand Master

inark

Posted
Posted

nope... not everything... like i said... if u want the flexible stuff then u have to PAY a lot... ie. URAS FRP bars are on average 28,000yen... Their V system which twists without cracking is 50,000+yen...

btw - the search thing was a joke...

Let Me Drive Mentor

Let Me Drive

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so yes im not to shore about the exchange rate what would that be for either one in aus dollers cos i dont want the painfull job of always haveing to get the bar repainted every time i drive home on the dirt roads even going 10km still gets chiped.

thanks inark for this

inark Grand Master

inark

Posted
Posted

generally you cant mod the original bar very easily as it sits out a fair bit more than the GTST gaurds (this is on a 32)... to fit it properly you need to fit the gaurds and indicators from a GTR like i had on mine.

you can however buy aftermarket ones made for GTSTs... however im not sure theyre made of plastic.

I would say to fit a genuine GTR bar to an R33 it would be a similar setup... gaurds, indicators and maybe even the bonnet.

inark Grand Master

inark

Posted
Posted
yeah but was something different and well aftermarket so does anyone know where to get one of these URAS FRP bars from ?

you dont wanna URAS one for a 33... they look shocking ;)

unless u want ur car lookin like a duck ;)

http://www.uras.co.jp/syohin/skyline.html#r33

there are other brands that also use similar materials... do-luck, vertex, BN Sports...

z_33skyline_front.jpg

EDIT: scratch that just checked the site and it looks like BN is also FRP which is still better than the cheap copies we get here... but not as flexible

Let Me Drive Mentor

Let Me Drive

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yep i agree so where and who do i speek to to get one of these frount bars cos im sick of talking to people like jetspeed who say "why dont you just get a fiber glass one" (i dont want a fiber glass one) so yeah

thanks inark if you have any one you know who can get one i would love to talk to them.

and $1000 is not out of the question cos it would last longer and look much better then a fiberglass one.

krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted

Could i get a mould of my Bomex Front bar and get it remade in plastic? I think it would be better to pay a little more then keep on repairing it because of driveways. I just cracked mine on a gutter last night ;)

**JaR** Grand Master

**JaR**

Posted
Posted
so yes im not to shore about the exchange rate what would that be for either one in aus dollers cos i dont want the painfull job of always haveing to get the bar repainted every time i drive home on the dirt roads even going 10km still gets chiped.

dude i drive home on dirt roads for about 3kms a day, and my front bars fiberglass, and mine goes alright without huge chips and stuff, unless the roads you gotta drive down are REAL bad. plastic still gets chipped and stuff anyways, mate of mine had a plastic front bar on his lancer, still got chipped .. living in a place where there are dirt roads maybe you dont got a choice mate ;).

inark Grand Master

inark

Posted
Posted

plus plastic is black not white like most glass bars so when the paint does chip on a plastic bar it doesnt stand out like dogs balls... especially on a dar coloured car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • Kinkstaah
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds.
    • PranK
      spot the stagea

      By PranK · Posted

      My roof rails are off atm on the E39 until the rust is fixed. I did find another little bit of surface rust under the rails when I took them off. As @soviet_merlin said I'd just leave them alone unless you're planning on ensuring they're properly sealed. I was on the fence about leaving them off as the delete is still a thing in BMW E39's but I feel like the car is missing something (er, it is, der) with them off and I'm looking forward to putting them back on.
×
×
  • Create New...