Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have mine for a while now and I take to track days about 3 times a year, personally I think the 33 is a great car for daily driving and a few fun track days.

Just spend $1000 on the whiteline handling kit and polyurethane (spelling?) bushes all round. Get decent brake pads and keep the car in good condition and you will have a really fun and reliable track car.

When I bought mine, I was thinking I would spend money on getting more power but after my first track day my cash has gone into handling - much more rewarding I think. Having said that I still plan on doing the intercooler, Power FC, boost controller.

So far I have got Bilstien shocks and springs (damping adjustable up front), front and rear strut braces, whiteline swaybars, polyurethane radius rod bushes, 17" wheels with 235 falcons and bendex ultimate pads all round. Engine mods are just the basic exhaust, pod filter and grounded boost solenoid to give 7psi. All this makes a fun track car and I keep up with skylines with 40kW more power but standard suspension.

I'm just planning on getting a new set of dba4000 front rotors and pineapples (rear subframe bushes) then I'll move onto the engine.

Have another drive of your friends r33 and get another veiw of it.Boost that is.Cause you wont get the turbo to spool quicker than the stockie unless you downgrade.So when you do upgrade the turbo you can kiss your dreams of earlier spoolup.But having said that you could allways throw in a set of cams,or just make do with what you have got with whatever turbo you choose.

R33's are quick and honestly unless you know how to controll drift/oversteer you wont want that much more power to start with unless your suspension setup is an equal match for driver and vehicle.

The mods you have listed are a good power upgrade for the 33.The pfc is a must if you want any hope of making 200rwkw.

Because as you probably have allready have read the stock ecu will run the fuel maps dangerously lean when upping the boost with the above listed mods.

HAPPY BOOSTING :)

R32's make better track cars..

I don't want to get an older car than 10 years. Plus i don't really like the look of the R32

I think a stock R33 with suspension mods will suit me fine. I don't want to build Gondzilla...i just want something fun.

When i DO get a dedicated track car, i will be looking at a R32 GTR and mod the shit out of that instead.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...