Jump to content
SAU Community

Overboosting Problem???

Unscarred711
 Share

Recommended Posts

Unscarred711 Enthusiast

Unscarred711

Posted
Posted

I have a Apex i avc-r controler and even with the boost controler OFF and runing just of the wastegate it is pulling up to 1.7 bar. Idearly i would have it at around 1 bar.

Also i have an Apex i comp and when i look at the Knock level sensor it has reached up 94. Is that considered a bad knock??

Since the boost controler is off why is is boosting up so hard and how do i stop it before somthing major goes wrong??

Turbo is a HKS 25/30 with an external wastegate.

any help would be great. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76712-overboosting-problem/
Share on other sites
Wazz Community Regular

Wazz

Posted
Posted

ive got similar problems with a power fc boost control kit in a sr20 silvia at the moment there saying that its wired up wrong.. yet its wired up fine.. it just wont ****ing work properly :D

turbo is a GT35 tho.. with 48mm progate (i think thats the wastegate cant member)

problem might be if its a turbosmart wastegate.. not EBC that we have tried has worked with turbosmart wastegates.. how ever those cheap lil tboost's work fine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...