Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I plan to go overseas this year and regretfully will be selling my car. It is immaculate condition and runs beautifully. I have spared no expense when servicing and upgrading, using only top shelf fluids, parts and accessories. I’m the first Australian owner of the car and have all import and compliance documentation.

I’m asking $18,500. I will be open to reasonable offers but please don’t waste my time with unrealistic ones. I believe this car is worth every penny of what I’m asking because I know what condition it’s in and how it has been treated.

1993 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25t Type M

General Features:

• RB25DET engine (2.5L DOHC EFI Turbo with VVT).

• 5 speed manual.

• 135,000 genuine kms (don’t be sucked in by fraudulent km claims).

• Power steering, windows & mirrors.

• Factory electric sunroof.

• Climate control

• Pioneer CD player with JL Audio component speakers.

• 3 point immobilizer and alarm.

• HICAS 4 wheel steering.

• Nissan 100,000km Service.

• Fluids have been changed every 5000km with major service every 10-15000km.

• RWC with 12 months rego.

• 450-500km per tank of fuel.

Cosmetics:

• SKY-033 number plates.

• 7 spoke 18” Payton Place alloy wheels (manufactured by http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/indexe.html ]Ray's Engineering[/url] ) with Hankook Ventus K104 Sport tires (approx 20,000 km left) 235/40/18F 255/35/18R.

TEIN Type HR Damper suspension (height and damper adjustable) with progressive sping. The car has been lowered but is a legal height. Contrary to rumors these are very comfy on the street due to the progressive spring feature.

Custom paint: The car has been re-sprayed the factory black with a blue pearl through the clear coat. No other 33 has this exact colour. It ‘flips’ from black to navy blue depending on the angle and level of light.

• Tinted windows.

• Nismo gear knob.

• Leather gear stick and hand brake boots.

Modifications:

• Full (and legal) exhaust system from the turbo:

* CES Racing Systems split dump/front pipe

* Stainless 7.5L high flow cat (recommended for GTR's)

* Jasma 3” straight through cat back with tip

• Access (Blitz) chipped ECU.

• Bleed valve set at 13psi.

• K&N panel filter in factory air box.

• Heavy duty 5 button sprung centre clutch (only 1000km old). Pedal feels like stock.

• Diff cradles (pineapples) to enhance traction.

Performance:

• The car has made 195kW at the rear wheels on the SelectMaz dyno.

• It has previously run a 13.83@101mph quarter mile at Heathcote Raceway (when the car was making ~150rwkW). It now should comfortably run a sub 13.5 sec pass.

Comments and Compliments:

• Mag Wheel & Tyre Preston: “I can tell this car has been looked after, the under body is so clean and tidy” :uh-huh:

• Tint a Car Preston: “Have you had the interior re-upholstered?” lol… no :D

• Driver Dynamics: “How old is this car? It looks brand new in here.” :(

• General regular comments: “Love those plates”, “I love the colour”, “you’ve done just enough to the look without going over the top”, and my favorite “Is your car black or blue?” :D

Pics:

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

8.jpg

6.jpg

Its stock orificer :(

7.jpg

selectmaz.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76767-blue-r33-gts25t-type-m/
Share on other sites

hey, i like the car. so its got the S2 engine? looking at getting a line in the next 2 or 3 weeks, probably (hopefully) 2, so il definetly be in touch if the car is still avail. i like how straight the body looks with that colour. well thats my 2 cents anyway if all goes to plan it will be my car by the end of the month :rofl: had the major service yeah all the belts etc? will negotiate a price with u when i am definate, but just so i dont put off other buyers, good luck with the sale. this is a fine example, if you have the cash before i do, get this car.

AGREED! that is a mint looking rig...

but... that dyno sheet is a bit dodgy looking... where is all the info? customer? I.D? Description? date? or did you blank it out?

good luck with sale

polka, yep, altho some guy is trying to organise a time to drop off a deposit. I've given him till Sunday then I'll stop taking him seriously.

Prospector, image has been blanked. I've got the original. There were about 20 other SAU members who witnessed it also :P

polka, yep, altho some guy is trying to organise a time to drop off a deposit. I've given him till Sunday then I'll stop taking him seriously.

Prospector, image has been blanked. I've got the original. There were about 20 other SAU members who witnessed it also ;)

i can vouch as a witness to the 190rwkw that it made at selectmaz...

good luck with the sale ;)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...