Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

As you may know, I recently fitted some cams to my car, which resulted in a slight loss of power blah blah blah.

Something I did find out however, is that you can actually adjust the inlet cam gear, but only from the back of the gear. That is the part which you can only get to by removing the cam gear itself.

In the name of power hunting, I'm making up a flange which I am going to fit to my car to enable the gear to be adjusted from the front of the gear, making it really easy to do.

I need, however, a guinea pig to have a go with their car.

I know that one of my mechanics has done this on am RB, he was using Wolf I think, and he reported pretty reasonable gains.

So, what I need is somebody who is keen to fit one to their car and report back on results.

I will have some samples this week....

Who is interested?

BASS OUT

sound interested :P if it wouldnt blow up my engine :), i will be up for it. the wa boys are holding a dynoday with saturday so if you could get it to before then i might be able to get abit of adjustment done and dyno results for you by next week,

ps, i got an rb25det s1 r33 1993

How much adjustment is in it? What kind of dyno time do you think would be needed to test this properly?

I'm interested but obviously how much it would cost me for very little (stock car) to 0 gain is of concern. Would be best to get a few people with cars at different stages to see where it is really handy. Will be getting a base power run on a DD dyno on the 19th regardless.

Well, you can feel the difference by the seat of your pants (apparently) with the adjustable exhaust cam, so I would assume you would be able to feel some difference by adjusting it all the way one way or the other.

I will be having mine done, and driving straight to a dyno for playing next week.

I wont be able to get it to W.A by this weekend though.

Where are you located GTS?

Some things I have experienced, might be worthwhile thinking about.

The usual adjustment (noting that every car is different) on the exhaust camshaft is 4 degrees (retarded). The inlet adjustment is 1 or maybe 2 degrees (advanced), some engines like to run on 0 inlet can timing. Then the power gains, I have seen as much at 15 rwkw from adjusting the exhaust camshaft timing. But I have never seen more than 5 rwkw from adjusting the inlet camshaft timing.

So be aware of the cost per $ equation when designing the inlet camshaft adjuster:cheers:

Yeah, I knew there wasn't a huge amount of difference, but I just want to try adjusting my inlet because there is adjustment available in the stock gear, and it is all the way to one side. Not sure which side as it's back on the car now. If it's retarded by it's full adjustment, I'm definently going to pick up a little bit, if it's fully advanced, maybe I need to back it off a little.

More for curiousity than for outright power searching.

SK, have you even adjusted the standard inlet cam on an RB25DET? Just curious if you know why there is adjustment as standard, cos the exhaust isn't adjustble....

All help appreciated.

PS, the adjuster will be a really really simple piece of laser cut 6mm plate with four holes tapped into it.

BASS OUT

so sydneykid, from all the R33 GTS-T inlet cam gears you have seen, whereabouts should the screw sit in the adjustment arc? middle? to one end fully?

edit: haha beat me to it!

Well 1 or 2 degrees is not much of a change from zero (standard) so they are in the middle, just a little advanced (that's clockwise). The following picture is the HKS exhaust camshaft pulley on the Stagea set at zero, as you can see 1 or 2 degrees wouldn't move the bolts much.

HKS_Pulley_Aligned_Small.jpg

:D

Yeah, I knew there wasn't a huge amount of difference, but I just want to try adjusting my inlet because there is adjustment available in the stock gear, and it is all the way to one side.  Not sure which side as it's back on the car now.  If it's retarded by it's full adjustment, I'm definently going to pick up a little bit, if it's fully advanced, maybe I need to back it off a little.

More for curiousity than for outright power searching.

SK, have you even adjusted the standard inlet cam on an RB25DET?  Just curious if you know why there is adjustment as standard, cos the exhaust isn't adjustble....

All help appreciated.

PS, the adjuster will be a really really simple piece of laser cut 6mm plate with four holes tapped into it.

BASS OUT

Sorry I have never adjusted the inlet camshaft timing on an RB25DET with standard cams. Only ever done it when the VVT was removed and aftermarket cams used.

I think it has an adjuster standard to allow for stretch in the cam belt, this would retard the inlet camshaft timing, which is not a good thing. Inlet camshaft timing has a big effect on emmisions, so maybe Nissan allowed for its correction to ensure emmisions compliance. That's my guess anyway.

:D

so IYHO for an RB30DET running 15psi, how should i assemble the inlet cam? right in the middle at zero, or advanced a bit?

I would give it a try at 1 or 2 degrees advanced, but every engine is different.:D

I think it has an adjuster standard to allow for stretch in the cam belt, this would retard the inlet camshaft timing, which is not a good thing.

So in the case that I had a new belt fitted..... Timing would be back to original or something?

Bugger it, I'm just going to fit the thing and have a play!!!

Inspired by SKs pretty pictures, I have taken the following few pics for your viewing pleasure.

You can see that the amount of adjustment is quite large, maybe 10 degrees total.

I noticed that the stock location of this particular gear was almost at 0 degrees.

I will be making the spacer/adjuster this week some time, just depends on when we are getting our next run of 6mm plate laser cut.

Enjoy

  • 3 weeks later...

Okay, after much buggerising and me being too busy, I have 3 samples to sell.

$40 is the price. They are laser cut and marked, and hand Tapped.

Each will be fitted to a pulley I have here to make sure it is a nice fit.

Freight will be $15 via TNT if you aren't in Melbourne.

Let me know.

So since this was so easy Pete, why not take the next step and start having the standard exhaust cam gears machined out and fit a machined bracket to provide a budget exhaust cam gear?

It is possible.

But by the time you make up the spacer ring AND machine the stock cam gear, you are talking about the same sort of money as a nice shiny, lightweight HKS cam gear.

The slots need to be machined on the radius, which means CNC, which means to do it properly you need a whole crap load of them and I ain't got more than one!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...