Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have done a search and read all the previous related threads on the whiteline products.

After a recent track day and seeing pics of my car rolling onto the door handles out of the 3 main corners at sandown I realise that power isent everything and I need some suspension upgrades.

Been looking at the whiteline handling kit plus adding some new front/back springs with it. I currently have blistein shocks which are around 5-7 years old but before the last few track days they didnt have a hard life so i am hoping i can use them for a fair while.

What rate spring should i go for considering I wont need to drive the car to work and back everyday now as I have another car which will turn into the daily driver.

What price am I looking at for this setup with installation???

How can i get the shocks checked to see how much life is left in them?

Give Quadrant a call if you want to stick with your shocks. $150 a shock and they will be fully rebuilt and valved to whatever you want. For an extra $145 per shock you can get a fully adjustable spring seat installed making them fully heigh adjustabel so that you can get the car corner weighed/balanced as well as getting the ride height spot on.

Check out the lap times thread, bullant_47 uses Whiteline springs and he is getting very good times out of his R33. Id be a bit more inclined to go a bit harder in the sping rate though havign really liked a firends R33 GTST with HKS Hypermax suspension.

Actually its going to cost you far too much money, for nothing i can give you an 8 second per lap improvement in lap times, we can just swap rego papers and keys:)

So if i had your car (wish i did, its got the blueprint right to give it some of the GTRs down here) id get all 4 shocks rebuilt/revalved with the adjustable seats : $1200. Then id be getting 350 pound front springs and about 200 pund rear, which is pretty close to what the AVO R33 GTST is running except he has DMS shocks. Springs from Quadrant are $150 a corner.

So thats $1800 and you can fit them with your new swaybars in about 3 hours all up. If you got somwhere to do it then im happy to help, i want to see another GTST up there:)

...oh and PS, the AVO R33GTST is running 280rwkws at the track on a std bottom end, he has cams but engine is std...i reckon you should be pretty safe running 1.2bar at the track provided nothing is getting to hot (water/oil) and A/F and ignition are ok when the thing starts to heat up:)

Nope:( I was hoping for a Group 4 kit, forget discount, i just wanted one as id like to stick with Whiteline..but they seem to have shifted their focus to EVOs/STIs and S13s which will of course be the volume seller for them. Cant get too carried away anyway, the kit they gave me has served me great

So right now im sticking with what i got, except for some new springs...toying with the idea of some DMS, but dont think ill go thru with it based on some feedback i have gotten regarding them.:confused:

If i could drive some other cars with setups then it would help me make a decision, but everyone looks for different things in suspension..so have to consider how i like my car to drive may pi55 you off:)

not sure what they are but i have whiteline springs and bilsteins in my car everything else standard so far (apart from braces font and rear) whiteline calls it the sports kit

the ride is similar to other stock cars ive been in only slightly firmer (i bought mine with hks coilovers got rid of them quickly) but the compromise is good between comfort and handling. im pretty sure if u got the handling kit as well it would be perfect for trackwork, and you could adjust the handling by changing settings on the swaybars too.

stock r33 suspension feels like jelly under hard acceleration a higher speeds, with the whiteline springs/shocks the car is much more stable on the road and precise.

sorry dont know the spring rates though! just call whiteline.

Bilsteins are a brand:) They have a shock for every application, there top of th eline stuff is pretty preicey though. You cna get a kit that makes them heitght adjustable, or you can just get them machined so that you can move the spring seat, liek Whiteline do with their kits

yeah thats right even if urs dont have the slots machined into them, u can take them to a suspension shop and they can do it for u it wont cost much.

my bilsteins only came with the one circlip position.

also the spring seats were very tight (did not fit!) onto a pair of the shocks we had to trim the inside of the seat with a dremel to make them fit.

Mine look to be very low, even on the highest setting. I'll have to install them first to check, but I have a feeling that they may need to have some more grooves machined in.

I'm a bit worried this will upset the rebound of them though. There must be a point where adjusting it effects the optimum rebound point?? Is this when you need to get them revalved - to suit the desired height correctly?

well the idea of the swap to the 32 was always to be mostly go / handling, less show ... I've been getting into a few track days up here yeah.. Eventually if I get another car, may just strip it and keep it for track only.

I bought a set of bilsteins 2nd hand. i was told they were decent condition, but paid very little for them so doesn't matter either way.. see how they go. Either keep them, rebuild them, or go for something else altogether. Gotta be better than those floaty Zeals I used to have in the old r33!

I have done a search and read all the previous related threads on the whiteline products.

After a recent track day and seeing pics of my car rolling onto the door handles out of the 3 main corners at sandown I realise that power isent everything and I need some suspension upgrades.

Been looking at the whiteline handling kit plus adding some new front/back springs with it. I currently have blistein shocks which are around 5-7 years old but before the last few track days they didnt have a hard life so i am hoping i can use them for a fair while.

What rate spring should i go for considering I wont need to drive the car to work and back everyday now as I have another car which will turn into the daily driver.

What price am I looking at for this setup with installation???

How can i get the shocks checked to see how much life is left in them?

INASNT, I'd get the Bilsteins checked out and rebuilt if necessary. The things that stiffened up my R33 was the thickest swaybars Whiteline made with extra adjustable holes (3 in rear and 4 in the front). I have new Bilsteins with one extra circlip hole machined 1" lower than the stock one...I have very little body roll.

Ian

I just got an awesome price for the whiteline r33 handling kit and new front/rear springs from a place in cheltenham (not ICE :)) doing a group buy.

I know its a good price coz i rang whiteline and asked their price and it was alot more without delivery to Melbourne.

I am not sure weather to go the whiteline recommended springs which are 25% harder or some tien s-tech medium springs which are more suited to track use.

If anyone else is interested in whiteline suspension parts PM me as the offer stands till the end of this month.

how do they compare with Bilsteins???  

i'm going to get a set of suspension for my car.... i was  thinking either a jap coil over or Bilstein shock and spring  

plz let me know as soon as possible...so i can decide it

How does what go with bilsteins???

I have another option now to go with second hand set of tein or hks shock/spring combo which my friend has a few sets of along with the whiteline handling kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...