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I think thats the thing, the three clutches i have had , std, UAS GTR ceramic puck clutch and anoe the Xtreme ceramic puck clutch are all light and not very grabby. So they will die / slip before putting too much shock loading through the box.

A friends misfortune of late has reminded me of what a mechanic told me, dont over clutch the car, as it will kill diffs and gearboxes:)

As for diff i run Castrol SAF-XA, 80w-140 (hopefully a link that works this time:))

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...XA_B1769_04.doc

id say the xtreme 9 puk ceramic clutch in my car was overkill. It was a xtremely (sorry :D) heavy and a biatch to use in the car park. It also was part of the reason my clutch pedal box split into 3 pieces, popping spot welds etc.

The OS giken twin plate in my car now is a more user friendly clutch, being no way near as heavy, and very nice in the car parks still.

As for the r33 box in the r32...ive gone through it before...but oh well : U need rb20 part of tailshaft that bolts it to diff, custom tailshaft, r33 box yoke, r32 gtr speedo sender, r33 red cog off electronic sender, custom gearbox x member.

Other than that it bolts up, and gearshift sits in the same spot as the rb20 box did.

Quick question. I read about these pull type and push type clutches/boxes? Whats the difference and which one do I need? And which comes out in what? Im just posting in this as its fairly recent. I shall keep searching tho.

as if anyone want to know more about this i have a neo 25 in mine with a r33 g box the box is twice the sze i can carry a 32 box around but 33 box definatly a two man job can help with info on tailshaft actuall i have a spare yoke speedo drive part numbers etx

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