Jump to content
SAU Community

Installing A Turbo Timer

Coupe-This

By Coupe-This,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

Coupe-This Grand Master

Coupe-This

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I am writing this up in order to help some people out there that don't want to get ripped off getting their turbo timer installed by an auto elec.

Now, firstly the turbo timer I installed was a HKS type 1 turbo timer, so some slight differances may occour :).

Things You will need :

Turbo Timer Wiring harness (best not to chop your loom if you can help it)

Wire strippers (You will need to strip 0.75mm wire)

wire connectors.

Side cutters

wire crimpers

Phillips Head screw driver

shifter or small socket set

Black electrical tape.

Pateince, and care !!

Now firstly you will have to remove the steering column surround, as stated in other guides on here. Now look at the back of the key barrel, there will be a 6 pin plug at the back of it, now simply unplug it, and plug the wires into the harness u have, and plug it back into the key barrel. Now before continuing, i made sure i had power and ignition still. So give it a try.

Now tidy up all the cables and make them neat under the dash. Plug the wiring harness into the turbo timer unit iteself.

Now, connect the earth to any metal surface. To know that its working have the ignition on, the plug connected into the turbo timer, and once u earth it. It should power up. Connect it.

( i installed mine in the ashtray so i ran my earth wire to the screws holding the gearbox boot down. Right next to my stereo one :).

Now, for the handbrake wire. This is where the fun starts.

take apart the gearbox surround, and continue to undo the centre console and completely remove so you can see the parking brake wire. Its on a switch. Now i unplugged this and soldered it onto the plug itself. But you can connect it closer to the dash simply by following the correct wire.

Now, get the ecu out, which for me (r33 gts-t) was in the passenger kick panel. Now i disconnected the battery before continuing from here on in. take the kick panel off, and undo the bolts holding the ecu in position. Now you can unplug the wires from the ecu so you have a little bit more movement (there isnt much). Follow the guide, cut the correct wires, taking lots of care that you are actually counting the plugs in the unit and not the amount of wires.

Say the diagram says the bottom row, 4th from the end.

You may have ||.| (| - indicates wire, . indicating now wire) The wire on the left will be the one to cut. I nearly got caught out this way so just take your time and care. Connect all the wires using the crimpers and connectors you had, neaten up all the wires as you see fit. Put everything back together again and enjoy your new fully connected turbo timer :D

Please download these files before continuing.

Ecu

Ecu plugs

Any questions please don't hesitate to ask :D

Best of luck !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77087-installing-a-turbo-timer/
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
  • 11 months later...
H@ME Mentor

H@ME

Posted
Posted
Has anyone installed an Apexi Auto Timer with A/F rario,O2 sensor voltage

etc.?

Did you get a "Specific Vehicle Harness" with it, or did you make it yourself?

No i havn't installed one but i have purchased one and do you have to buy the vehicle specific harness?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Intercooler Choice

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Plazmaman 76mm Pro Series, done. Data to back it up, I posted up somewhere here a few years back
    • GTSBoy
      RB26 swapped gtst

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So.....wire it up appropriately. You can't use the resister pack with those injectors anyway.
    • r33.antwone
      RB26 swapped gtst

      By r33.antwone · Posted

      that’s the thing i’m on ID1050s and haltech not getting power due to the injector resistor 
    • Toilet Goblin
      Intercooler Choice

      By Toilet Goblin · Posted

      ahh okay cheers, i was thinking of just going for the m073, think m079 would be way too overkill considering they are same size. 
    • GTSBoy
      HK Premier with plans for slight mods, but keeping clean and simple

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My first car was a HG. I'm very familiar with them. A mild cam upgrade is a good idea. The 186 is a very flexible engine - meaning it has good torque from down low. You can give up a little torque down low for quite a lot more excitement in the mid range, and a bit more up top - but they are not exactly a rev monster. You need to upgrade valve springs at the minimum. For a bigger cam, you'd want to make sure it wasn't still running the original fibre cam gear. That would be unlikely, given that most of them shat themselves in the 70s and 80s, but still within the realms of possibility. Metal cam gear required. Carbies are a huge issue. The classic upgrade was always a Holley 350, which works, but is usually pretty bad for fuel consumption. The 186S had a 2 barrel Stromberg on it that was very similar to the one on the 253, and is a reasonable thing if you can find one, and find someone to help you get it set up (which is the same issue with setting up a 350 to work nice). The more classic upgrade was twin sidedraught CD type carbs, or triples of same, or triple Webers. The XU-1 triple Webers being the best example. You can still buy all this stuff new, I think, but it's a lot of coin to drop. And then the people able to set them up are getting fewer and further in between. There's still some, but it used to be everyone's** dad and uncle could do it. **Not everyone's! But a lot. All in all, I wouldn't get too carried away with the engine. Anything you do to it without a full rebuild for power and revs will only make it slightly faster. I am all in favour of a complete teardown rebuild, with nice rods and pistons, 10 or 10.5:1 compression, and a clean port job with at least a big enough cam to run 98 with that compression, if not bigger. And if I did that to a dirty old red motor, I'd want to inject it too, which I'd struggle to fight against the devil on my shoulder that would argue for ITBs and trumpets. But the bills would start to mount up, and it will still never make stupid power. OK, a few people still know how to build absolutely mental red motors, courtesy of the work that went into HQ racing and modern knowledge being applied. But even a 300HP red motor is no match for an RB20 with a TD06. So you have to decide what it's worth to you. I'd just put a set of 6>2>1 extractors, a 2.5" exhaust and an electronic ignition conversion/dizzy on it and just run the old girl like the fairly slow old girl that she really is.
×
×
  • Create New...