Jump to content
SAU Community

RB20DET problem *WRX sound*

negativecamber
 Share

Recommended Posts

negativecamber Collaborator

negativecamber

Posted
Posted

hey people i need some advice,

i have a rb20det 5 spd in my S13 silvia....

tonight all of a sudden it started rumbling and it sounded exactly like a WRX boxer engine. it was making normal boost levels but the power felt lower and it was very lumpy!!!! i pulled over and had a look under the bonnet, when i gave the throttle a little twist, i could hear a sound like a hiss. i couldn't destinguish if it was an air leak or if it was like a squirting sound. (if you understand me?) but the sound was around the top of the engine where the intake pipe meets the throttle body. is this a common problem some people have heard? or will it be something to go see a doctor about???

after i stopped after and turned off the engine for 30 mins it was fine again. then it happened for about 5 minutes while driving home. what is thisssssss?????

any help would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77208-rb20det-problem-wrx-sound/
Share on other sites
Bazelinez Proficient

Bazelinez

Posted
Posted

Dead coil pack dude! Guarentee it. Take off the plug cover and unplug each one individually. The engine will run even rougher on each one. When you unplug the one that makes no difference you've found the stuffed one :D

Mine did this when I imported it and as soon as it got warm the dodgy one would fail.

good luck.

R31 POWER Mentor

R31 POWER

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem but it was a spark plug,the ceramic bit above the gap cracked and slid down to cover the spark gap.Everynow and then it would back to normal,must of been the comp pushing it back up etc.

So yer as baselinez said coil pack coz it's not sparking.

Also spray carby clean around the inlet manifold(where the top/bottom meets)join and see if the idle changes.Could be gasket or maybe just tighting of the bolts.

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

I have had this problem many times and had many reasons for it.

As mentioned it could be a faulty plug or a faulty ignition coil or module. It can also be caused by a leak in the inlet tract.

As you heard a hissing sound around the throttle area I would be starting there first and looking closely at the rubber joiner for a split.

And while you have the crossover pipe off may as well throw in some new plugs.

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

Its gotta be ignition.

Mine comes and goes just like that on my RB26. Seriously just goes into Rexy mode, then 5mins later, goes to GTR mode. (GTR is better by the way, hehe).

It has to be ignition, because if it was a cracked seal or something it would be more constant, I think mine might even be the plug going into the module, hope its not a coil pack.

negativecamber Collaborator

negativecamber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

will a dud coil pack come and go though? cause today the problem seemed not existent. but i bet it'll go on the weekend again. also just noticed my clutch is starting to get very slippery, so thats more money i have to spend. is the RB sound really worth it in the end??? i'm thinking maybe an SR would have been the better option :D

darkrams69 Enthusiast

darkrams69

Posted
Posted

just like almost the majority of contributors on this thread, i say that it is you coils. get them replaced.

(quote:'m thinking maybe an SR would have been the better option ) believe me, the RB is way better!

Bazelinez Proficient

Bazelinez

Posted
Posted

Dude, its basically the only problem the RBs have and its just due to age. Yes with my car the problem came and went until it stayed stuffed for good.

Do the test and it will prove if its them or not.

You can't blame a slipping clutch on the motor type :D Its just one of those things. Stick with it, the RB shits on the SR. One dud coil is the only problem i've had on mine in 6 months since I imported it. Fix it and you'll be fine! Keep us posted!

negativecamber Collaborator

negativecamber

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol that was what i was like too, i was like: "hey cool i sound like a modded WRX!" then i started driving like miss daisy and worrying about it hahahah but i enjoyed the sound but not the rumble through the car etc.

i will try to suss out the coil packs on the weekend, and get back to you's!

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

Anyone?

Can you tell us how to test each coil?

Because if its going to be a matter of trialing each coil being swapped over, it could take 3 months, as its inconsistant whether it works or not. So I'll swap one, then wait a week, then swap the next one, wait another week or two and so on.

There must be some way to test.

Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted

Like he said, just unplug them one by one, if the one you unplug is GOOD the car will sound even WORSE, so plug it back in and move on to another until you get to one that when unplugged makes no difference, that's the cylinder that's down.

But don't just assume it's the coil, pull the spark plug out and check it (is if fouled? clean it and see if things improve), swap a pack around and see if the dropped cylinder follows the coil, if not to loom could be damaged, etc.

If it's a dud coilpack buy a new one, or if you intend to run high-boost in the future maybe think about a set of SplitFires (~$650).

psybic Proficient

psybic

Posted
Posted

I say again:

Because if its going to be a matter of trialing each coil being swapped over, it could take 3 months, as its inconsistant whether it works or not. So I'll swap one, then wait a week, then swap the next one, wait another week or two and so on.

This is relevant because the guy the started the thread and myself are NOT having the problem all the time, but would like to fix it before it comes an ALL THE TIME thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Ben_D
      Wanted to buy R200 longnose LSD 3.9 ratio

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Ben_D
      Back for more after 18 years - and where are the longnose R200 LSDs?

      By Ben_D · Posted

      Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • sonicii
      G35 Control arm and Compression Rods into a V35 Skyline.

      By sonicii · Posted

      Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...