Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unfortunately there are a few different plugs, series 4 injectors are the same as GTR and rb20 ones, the series 5 ones are different, ive been told they may be the same as rb25 ones but i cant be sure they look similar on the fuel rail, anyone have any pics of some or some for sale.

Unfortunately the places im sure will have some are on holidays till the 6th so i may have to wait unless i can find some.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7731-rx7-injectors/#findComment-113607
Share on other sites

RX7 injectors are really notorious

they have 2 type of part numbers

& are either in red or a pinkish colour (maybe from age the colour fades)

Part numbers are XXXX-2020 or XXXX-1370 (i think)

Funny thing is my mate has a 3SGTE & there injectors are low impedence, & one of his mates has a RX7 series 4 injectors for sale, he bought it without bring a multi-meter because the injectors came out of the s4 engine, once he got it home he tested the ohm with a multimeter & it rated at 13 ohm hence making them high impedence, just coz some say its a series 4 injectors it doesnt mean its low impedence.

If you plan on buying them MAKE sure you bring a multi-meter with you when you buy it.

Regarding installation, i have heard they fit stright in, but it they dont well a fuel rail dont cost much 2 buy about $100-$150

Hope it helps,

Joe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7731-rx7-injectors/#findComment-114547
Share on other sites

This might not apply but on the R33 Injector loom you ahve a common ground for all injectors so it does matter about the polarity of the injectors. So just be careful... And the plugs for the RX injectors any injector joint will have em, there the same as commodore ones. (Well thats what i used anyway)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7731-rx7-injectors/#findComment-116000
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...