Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

fmic. definatly, you'll have to do it before you go exploring bigger turbos and more boost. it should be considered a must have, like the exhaust. an ecu may get you bang for buck, but it will need tuning, and will need re tuning with each further modification you do. ecu should be the last thing you do with the stock turbo.

i dont rate them but alot of people are using the hybrid coolers and not having a problem. i fitted one to a mates 180...the actual core is good, but i've had to go through and replace all the silicon joiners and hose clamps on it.

cheers

Linton

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77827-fmic-or-ecu/#findComment-1422068
Share on other sites

go the basic mods.. you'd be better off giving your turbo car more power.. higher boost would need a FMIC..i'm not too sure if your PFC would be able to give your engine more cold air while running higher boost than standard.--

See it this way -- your PFC would be limited to its real potential due to your lack of mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77827-fmic-or-ecu/#findComment-1424104
Share on other sites

Blitz - V-Spec LM Intercooler - L610 X H266 X W68 - $1100

Greddy/Trust - L600 X H240 Xw76 -$1095 or 1295 for fully polished:)

Hks - L600 X H300 X W65 - $1300 Or 1500 for pollished endtanks and all piping

they are all really the same size and are complete bolt up kits and seam the most popular and prices include delivery to victoria so it would be somewhat cheaper to qld.

hope this is useful

lee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77827-fmic-or-ecu/#findComment-1429311
Share on other sites

I'd get yourself a Power FC. You can tune the fuel and ignition maps to provide better power and response and you can keep it as you upgrade the power bits.

From my experience unless you are very carefull not to get an intercooler that is too big (read 600x300x75 is too big) for the factory turbo your performance in terms of acceleration could well go backwards. Peak horsepower means nothing and even horsepower increases can be negated by a loss of engine response due to the far larger volume of air that must be moved through.. Or to put it another way; my old R33 ran low 13's without a front mount intercooler on little 205 tyres and there have been quite a few guys since who have done the same. Put your money back in your pocket whislt you have the factory turbo. Wait until you are ready to plan for the total package you want for your car. Pick the intercooler, turbo, cams and upgrade bits so they all match perfectly for the horsepower and performance goals you have. Do it this way and you avoid the 'bolt on boy' approach that costs more money and can often end up in a car that is slower than a factory stock one.

Note however, there are some good and cheap upgrades of intercoolers in the form of sidemount trust/ARC or even R34 GTT factory units. And don't forget to remove the panel behind your stock intercooler (through to the wheel arch) to increase the cooling airflow.

To sum up. Buy a Power FC and get more go. Buy a cheap mismatched front mount intercooler and cars like my old R33 gtst will hand you your ass in a race and return better fuel ecconomy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77827-fmic-or-ecu/#findComment-1429323
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...