Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does the vehicle above have a lsd in the front housing .

If not where can i get one , and if it does what sort of hp will it handle and how do i stop on hard launch and further doen the track, the car giong to one side .

Who knows the best way and where to get a seriuosly tough manual box , are the later skyline 6 speeds any tougher?

Want to drag the vehicle and around 750 - 800 atw.

Any help appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77972-gtr-r32-diff-and-gear-box-questions/
Share on other sites

Guest DIRTgarage
Does the vehicle above have a lsd in the front housing .

If not where can i get one , and if it does what sort of hp will it handle and how do i stop on hard launch and further doen the track, the car giong to one side .

Who knows the best way and where to get a seriuosly tough manual box , are the later skyline 6 speeds any tougher?

Want to drag the vehicle and around 750 - 800 atw.

Any help appreciated

Front diff not an lsd...id change the rear diff before i looked at the front...both front and rear 1.5 way cusco diff are the way to go.

Pfitzner manual box is ideal if its purely a track car...otherwise if it sees street use then id lean towards a 5 speed OS giken gearset with input shaft.

Front diff not an lsd...id change the rear diff before i looked at the front...both front and rear 1.5 way cusco diff are the way to go.

Pfitzner manual box is ideal if its purely a track car...otherwise if it sees street use then id lean towards a 5 speed OS giken gearset with input shaft.

Thank's for your suggestions, i was told that the front diff is wshy the car pulls hard to one side when going down the strip, it needs to be LSD.

Cusco ? Who or where do i get these?

Why the rear first?

Guest DIRTgarage
Thank's for your suggestions, i was told that the front diff is wshy the car pulls hard to one side when going down the strip, it needs to be LSD.

Cusco ? Who or where do i get these?

Why the rear first?

I have had no problems with car pulling hard other than torque steering...easily controlled with steering input...

any jap supplier wiil do for a diff

The car going hard to one side sound more like a suspension problem or handling

It might even be worth check the condition of the std open diff as i killed one at the drags not that long ago (tore it to pieces not pretty)

Its not subframe movement?

 

My bushes have recently got a little sloppy, I noticed the subframe pulling forward on the dyno.

 

Plant the foot and I find it steers the car slightly.

Nah , all little off track ( pardon the pund ) every thing you guys have mentioned is A OK

. The car definetly pulls to the right on a hard launch , and as i increase the hp it's going to do this even more . I believe it's to do with the front diff not bieng LSD. I am going to change it.

What does 1.5 and or 2 mean, in regards to the diff .?

1 way diff only locks up under acceleration. 2 way locks up under acceleration, and decelleration. 1.5 fully locks up under acceleration and partially locks up under decceleration.

if you are going to put 800kw to the ground I would consider possibly a 6 speed sequential hollinger box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...