Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are a few threads about this now, a few in Forced Induction and this tutorial that will at least get you started:)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=62674

If you struggle to get a resistor pack off a GTR (few ppl want to part with them) then you can always make up your own...just meed to visit Jaycar.

I have a couple of GTR resistor packs lying around, i'm in NZ though :(

It's as simple as installing the resistor pack, supplying it with constant 12V to the black wire then from your GTS-T injectors running the positive wire from each injector to each of the 6 white wires on the resistor..

ok so your saying that when i get the resitor pack off a gtr, i have to supply it with 12v to the black wire or as in roy's pictures it looks red. The untape the injector harness and the positive wire that goes to each injector i have to cut the wire and run a new one back to the gtr resitor ballast...(am i correct). Where do the standard positive wires come from then that im cutting and re routing to the new gtr balast??

sry for being a pain just thinkin it might be easier just to go with rx7 s5 injectors and just changin the plugs over

Dude it seems to be just a matter of splicing the GTR resistor pack inline with the 12V supply to the injectors. It sounds like something that will become abundantly clear once you have everything in front of you and unwrapped.

Sounds to me to be easier than changing injector plugs. Its only cutting and joining 7 wires.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...