Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i saw in the quokka today (wa buying and selling paper) a dude was trying to sell an

r31 gts sillhoute build 165/200 for $6900 (white...so that would be series one and no real mods whatso ever)

is this reasonable or to much or not enough

it looks like to me that it is not enough for such a rarish car :werd:

ur opinions??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78099-r31-gts-how-much/
Share on other sites

It's a pretty normal price, they don't hold as much value as the later Red with white wheels GTS2's (That one in the Quokka is an all White GTS1). It's still about 2-3x the price of a non-GTS.

Also, there is about 7 or so GTS1's, and only 3 GTS2's known to be WA.

They are an awesome car, the seats and suspension are the best :) just needs more power.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78099-r31-gts-how-much/#findComment-1426550
Share on other sites

Also, there is about 7 or so GTS1's, and only 3 GTS2's known to be WA.

um... There are at least a dozen GTS1's and 5 GTS2's that we know of in WA.

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?...p?topic=10605.0

Thanks for the heads-up, I'll add #165 to the list.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78099-r31-gts-how-much/#findComment-1427721
Share on other sites

ur a busy man SKY031

over 4000 posts in r31skylineclub forum and over 2200 posts in this forum hmmm

no worries for the tip - but what do u reckon SKY031 - too much, not enough, just enough

personally i think that it is not enough - considering that there are only 12 or so of these in wa

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78099-r31-gts-how-much/#findComment-1428356
Share on other sites

SOUNDS like a good price, get it checked. the 4 most sort after r31's would have to be the gts-r,gts2, gts-x and the gts1. all great cars, go to www.r31skylineclub.com ask around as a few members can check the history of that #gts1.. then come back here to chat to us all about your new car.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78099-r31-gts-how-much/#findComment-1428402
Share on other sites

hey im not buying it

it just looked a little cheap - and therefore to me a little suspect

i wish i could buy it

and i am really sorry SKY031 - im not a chauvanist by any means - i just ashumed.... and ashumed wrongly i believe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78099-r31-gts-how-much/#findComment-1428413
Share on other sites

Don't apologise, I'm kinda used to it.....

The old schoolers around here all know I'm female, as for the newcomers, I'd rather that they all think I'm a bloke... guys get strange when it comes to taking tech advice from females.

Back on topic,

The price is fairly standard.

Most GTS1's are in the $4,500 - $9,000 range.

Take into account that these cars are 15 years old.

They are hard to find original parts for, and although $6,900 may seem cheap, if it's in need of a bit of love, repair costs could run into the thousands.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78099-r31-gts-how-much/#findComment-1429634
Share on other sites

shit they're worth a bit in aussie....i saw a sillhoute here for sale the other day for $300 with no reg or wof. I laughed....was expensive if you ask me. Are they really worth that much!? Whats a factroy standard HR-30 Paul Newman Version Coupe worth in Aussie?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78099-r31-gts-how-much/#findComment-1434648
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...