Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is confusing the hell outta me :confused:

Ive looked at the firewall on my skyline and there doesn't seem to be anywhere to run some cable through....do I have to drill a new whole?

I don't really wanna drill a new whole incase there is something behind the sopt I drill and I puncture something....

I need to run some 4 gauge cable from my battery under the bonnet all the way to the boot, I have already run all other cables to amps, deck, speakers etc...now it just needs POWA :uh-huh:

........help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78238-running-cable-through-r32-firewall/
Share on other sites

there are some rubber/foam grommetsthe go thru if your looking from the inside they are right up underneath the dash easier to get to them from the engine bay they are kind of triangular in shape just slip youe wire through there. if you still cant find it try tracing your other wires in the engine bay through the firewall and slipping it along side them. but there is definitly a grommet there that you can remove to feed it through

What you need to do is

1. In the car on the drivers side take of the kick panel (right foot side when sitting in the car) with this off you should be able to see the firewall and in the corner a large rubber grommet.

2. Jack the car up, front driver’s side wheel, take the wheel off. once the wheel is off you need to remove the plastic cover in the wheel arch. don’t take it all off as there are like 500 screws just what is nessacery to pull part of it down. ps. you might want to put some car stands to hold the car up instead of leaving the car on the jack

3. standing at the side of the car where you took the wheel off take the power cable and push it through the guard there should be an opening near brake booster side of the guard (back end of the guard behind the strut tower) just feel around under the guard to find the opening. once you have found the opening, push it through the cable should know be in the wheel arc where you pulled the wheel cover down. put your hand up there and find the cable and then push the cable trough the grommet you should be able to feel it at the back of the guard

4. the cable should now be inside the car.

if you have any probs i can pm you my number and a can talk you through it

if you need any pics i can get you some

Good luck

I found this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...hrough+firewall

describing pretty much what mr 32 described, thanks all, will see if I can find that hole....is it easy to do with the wheel on?

you cant do it with the wheel on as you cant take the inner plastic wheel arc cover off. if anything it is easyer with the wheel off

There is no need to go under the car or wheel arch at all. The easiest way to run cables in the R32 is down the drivers side from inside the engine bay.

There is a triangular shaped grommet in the inner guard behind the shocktower beside the brake booster.

When you remove the triangular grommet you will see a large round grommet in the firewall

directly behind it. From inside the car this grommet is located high above the accelerater pedal.

Remove the driver's kickpanel for better access.

Poke a screwdriver through the round grommet, from inside the car, into the engine bay far enough so that you can use electrical tape to tie the cable to the tip of the screwdriver.

If the cable is thick a bit of rubber grease will help to ease the screwdriver and cable back through the grommet.

Feed enough cable through to reach the amp and run the cable under the edge of the carpet where the sill meets the floorpan.

where would that cable some out in the engine bay?, under the brake booster?, I can't see any grommet from the top of the booster!, unless I am just blind

hmmm. now thats my problem...I already have speaker cable, remote wire cable and 2 RCA's running down the drivers side, so I am gunna go over the back of the dash and run it along the passengers side....6m should get that done right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't take it as a guarantee. It's all a game of statistics. And on top of that, smooth over a thick layer of "quality of spanner spinning" as a further Gaussian curve of probability of failure. You play games at anything above ~400 HP, and you're using up margins in terms of engineering and luck.
    • Aye, everything is being touched and all the parts that are responsible for the oiling issues are also fixed. (Crank collar, billet prp oil pump, head return to sump, yada yada yada)  Everything used is of reputable brands like greddy, prp etc. My tuner did mention we’d keep the torque on the “lower” side.   glad to read that my engine won’t blow up on me lmao 
    • It's a fuel pump. EFI, high pressure, but specs otherwise unknown. A bodge job.
    • 800 engine horsies is fine. Will need all the obvious upgrades. Rods, pistons, oil pump, big sump, sump breathing mods. Build for revs because revs are power with less stress on the bottom end compared to boost. Keep the torque down in the midrange, either by limiting boost or timing.  
    • Hiya guys,    i’m currently in the process of getting my rb26 built. everything is being replaced with better/upgraded parts or oem when that’s good enough (which isn’t alot lol). someone earlier mentioned to me that i’ll be screwed cause the iron block can’t take 800hp (to the engine, not wheels) which is what it’s being built for.  what do you guys think about this, am I cooked or na? The guy building the engine will also do the mapping as he is “the guru of old nissan engines” here in Belgium. I know the mapping makes a huge deal so i’m not concerned about that.    I honestly he’s talking shit cause he’s that kinda guy but a second opinion never hurt anyone! cheers in advance! 🫶🏻
×
×
  • Create New...