Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i had my second run in with the boys in blue tonight got done for a few things :P

One thing that has me a bit stumped is i got done for having something done to the area where my back speakers are.

i bought the car like that, and the policeman goes you'll need a engineers cert for that.

I asked him what the problem was and apparently they had to make room for the speakers or something and that it could affect my car during a crash if i get hit from behind or something like that???

Anyway how much do those things roughly set one back? i looked at a few of the nsw threads about it but prices may vary here?

Any help apprciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78431-engineer-certificate/
Share on other sites

Engineers are $500, you'll probably need to replace your parcel shelf if it has sections missing, ie bits have been cut out to make room for the speakers.

My car came with the most poxy "custom built" parcel shelf made of two pieces of chip board sitting on each other. I've built a schmik replacement that's as tight as a nun's ****, could I get dicked for that? :confused:

engineers reports vary in price from each engineer/workshop to the type of modification/car... i dunno how you guys came up with these figures..

get a list of vicroads certified engineers and ring them all up to discuss your issue and the best price...

engineers reports vary in price from each engineer/workshop to the type of modification/car... i dunno how you guys came up with these figures..

get a list of vicroads certified engineers and ring them all up to discuss your issue and the best price...

i called up about 6 engineers whose numbers i got from vicroads and the cheapest i found was $660

If you can find cheaper please point me in the right direction.

What does it exactly say on the canary notice and fine u got?

Does it say full roadworthy needed?

I would be checking exactly what they wrote you up for coz he might have said u need an engineers report for your parcel shelf but didnt write it officially down. Wouldnt want to go wasting your $$ on something you dont need. You should get the parcel shelf fixed properly but may not need to pay an engineer to look at it for 10 mins and charge you alot of $$. They charge so much for their signature because if you are in an accident and they investigate and find the item they signed off for was faulty they will get reamed, so they are just covering their asses.

I was told a bunch of crap when i got done years ago but all they wrote was I needed a full roadworth. When the roadworthy was done they didnt worry about any of the crap i was verbally told, and when you hand in the paperwork at vicroads they couldnt care less either.

i got done for:

Ground Clearance - my cars to low.. fair enough :)

Tyres (2) - they are 89v or something when they need to be 90v or above, load rating or something?

Tyres (1) - front drivers side had a bald strip along the inside of my tyre cause car needs to be aligned which is fair enough

Structural changes (parcel tray) - VASS certificate to be supplied

Front End alignment - to be realigned

*plus i have a condition written down than i'm not allowed to drive in the wet until i change my tyres. which is also fair enough.

so its gonna be very pricey :D

i called up about 6 engineers whose numbers i got from vicroads and the cheapest i found was $660

If you can find cheaper please point me in the right direction.

some years ago(actually longtime ago) i had my datsun engineered by a workshop in carumm downs...think they were called 'Protek'...

they were the cheapest back then and were a nice bunch of guys, but i am not sure if they are still supplying reports...see if they are on the list.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...