Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

af.jpg

boost.jpg

torque.jpg

I've had my car tuned by 2 other shops and i can say without a doubt that the CRD tune was by far the best... Safer tune and more power the car makes over 10psi at 3,000rpm its super responsive..

The car has built engine GT-SS turbo's but stock cams...

We didn't get enough time to play with the cam gears we are going to do that when i get a set of larger cams and some other things (oil cooler etc) so hopefully she will make some more power!!

  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

mate, i highly suggest having the cam gears adjusted. mine went from 220 to 250 kw atw just from that (with the 2psi boost increaed by too). especially since you have them sitting there.

very nice mate. fat looking curve, with plent down low. cam gears could even put you over the 300kw mark.

mate, i highly suggest having the cam gears adjusted. mine went from 220 to 250 kw atw just from that (with the 2psi boost increaed by too). especially since you have them sitting there.

very nice mate. fat looking curve, with plent down low. cam gears could even put you over the 300kw mark.

Well it was a time consideration and seeing as i am planing to get new cams which will mean having to reset them it wasn't really worth the tuning time... Mind you they are set at 5,3 atm from a previous tune..

Although i am sure we could get more from it but 285kw is enough for now....

ahh if they are already set then yeah, just leave it. not much point re-inventing the wheel (so to speak!) if you are only going to replace the cams anyway.

out of interest do you have a graph of the first run it did, with the last one to compare to?

ahh if they are already set then yeah, just leave it. not much point re-inventing the wheel (so to speak!) if you are only going to replace the cams anyway.

out of interest do you have a graph of the first run it did, with the last one to compare to?

No i don't but the car was making 260 4wkw from the previous tune with a much leaner AF ratio...

Damn that looks nice

I had mine tuned there the other day, basically standard mods - exhaust, boost, power fc

Netted me a nice 227.6 awkw at 15psi on stock turbs.

Wish my dyno graphs looked like yours :P

Heres my graph

kwvstorque2.jpg

Sorry for the thread hijack :(

This really shows how good the GT-SS turbo's are!!! at 90km/h on stock turbo's you car is making 3200nm torque... At 90km/h on my car with the GT-SS its making 3800nm torque...

So not only do you get more top end you get alot more low end response to!!!

Sorry for not returning your calls on Saturday mate, I had my phone on silent from when I went to the gym the night before and only realised when I was out painting the town red Saturday night! :P

Interesting that the car lost 30awkw just from the change back to stock cams... Also interesting that the torque falls over after peaking so early. What boost was this run at? 1.6 bar/24psi right? From all accounts, that's the limit of the GT-SS efficiency curve, so perhaps the camshafts DO make a big difference?

It will be interesting to see how the bottom end is affected by the bigger cams. I distinctly remember the car pulling a little harder down low with the stock cams (which is what I was after)... I'll see if I can dig up the old dyno graph of the car with the 260/260 poncams.

I'll also dig through the garage to find those cams... I have no idea where I put them after we renovated the garage :-/

Sorry for not returning your calls on Saturday mate, I had my phone on silent from when I went to the gym the night before and only realised when I was out painting the town red Saturday night! :)

Interesting that the car lost 30awkw just from the change back to stock cams... Also interesting that the torque falls over after peaking so early. What boost was this run at? 1.6 bar/24psi right? From all accounts, that's the limit of the GT-SS efficiency curve, so perhaps the camshafts DO make a big difference?  

It will be interesting to see how the bottom end is affected by the bigger cams. I distinctly remember the car pulling a little harder down low with the stock cams (which is what I was after)... I'll see if I can dig up the old dyno graph of the car with the 260/260 poncams.

I'll also dig through the garage to find those cams... I have no idea where I put them after we renovated the garage :-/

Thats ok mate!! ended up spending like 10 hours at CRD :P That was running about 22psi but a very safe tune and no playing with the cam gears..

From what Jim has told my and what i have heard around the traps the cams make a big difference...

Oh btw did you know the powerfc pro has a 2step luanch feature :( can't wait to try that out on the bottle :D

Oh btw we got it to idle at 1000rpm and we found out why it uses soo much fuel... Dead 02 sensors!!

:P

If I had a dollar for every GTR that had dead O2 sensors........... :(

Yes, I knew that the Pro had launch control, but what it does, is cut ignition spark which causes it to dump a ton of unburnt fuel into the exhaust where it promptly ignites and tries to blow MASSIVE flames.

Don't use it unless you bolt in a straight through pipe or hollow cat-convertor, because it's the fastest way you can reduce an expensive cat-convertor into a molten lump of restrictive metal :D

Try not to hit the rev-limiter too much too, because it's an ignition cut as well, which causes the same dumping of unburnt fuel. I purposely got the PowerFC Pro because the ignition cut is much much nicer on the engine than a fuel cut which normal PowerFCs use for a rev-limiter.

Hi "kabab"You now also have 1st hand experience of just how good Jim @ CRD is with his dyno tuning - proof with your back to back comparison tuning with other GTR tuners 'so to speak...'

He is the guru!!! I back this statement up with my personal experience :P

Congrats on your results mate :(

Marko.

Could do with gearing if i am not mistaken you have a trick gear box in yours, was it dyno'd in a gear that was 1:1 ?

aha! nothing get's by the kabab. you are right, but it was done in 4th which is still a 1:1 ratio. just 1, 2, and 3 are slightly different, 4 and 5 are as per standard 32GTR.

I got them to reference the graph against rpm anyway as I find it easier for me to understand rather than trying to convert road speed. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...