Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 3 roll cages that i dont need.

One is from an R33 and the other two are from r32 GTR's.

They are all 6 point cages with cross bar in back.

2 of them have complete padding and the other has padding in the rear section.

Asking $600 each. They are all in perfect condition want to get rid of them.

Call me on 0408064230 or e-mail: [email protected]

Thanx all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/
Share on other sites

They are all full roll cages,

all 2nd hand but as good as knew.

Removed from cars before compliancing

I have only got a couple of pics when they were in cars

because they are still at workshop that removed them.

here are a couple of the r33 cage inside car.

they are all made from steel and padded

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/#findComment-1436788
Share on other sites

what size is the tubing? looks close to 2 1/2 maybe 3"?

what grade of steel is it? mild, s/s(unlikely), chromemoly, 350, 450???

obviousely its all bolt up? How is it joined through the top section? with bolts or has it been welded and needs to be rewelded once put back in car?

Another quick question..In the 33's if you run straight past the steering wheel near door hinge, theres barely any room for hand movement around the standard steering wheel, that pic had an a/m wheel on it, do you know if this was to allow for the lack of room, cause i dont think you can legally remove an airbag wheel and replace it with a nonairbag sort.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/#findComment-1436933
Share on other sites

I am not sure about the grade of steel but the piping is about 2" and looks bigger with the padding.

Yes the car has an a/m wheel on it i am not sure if it will be a problem for the stock wheel of a series 2. it was ok with the series 1. wheel fro memory

and it all bolts up along the roof so is easy to install took about 2 hour's to remove.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/#findComment-1437079
Share on other sites

The cage bolts in, next to the front seat just under the back seat at the side's, and at the front where the floor mate's are. Anyone will have to drill holes threw floor and wheel arch's bolt or there would be no problems i can see with welding the them in either.

I Presume the GTR cages would fit a 32 as I was under the impression the inside dimensions were the same but if someone could verify that. that would help.

Tha cages are at the work shop so i have only a couple of poor pics of them in the car hope you can see them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/#findComment-1438537
Share on other sites

My phone was scrwed over the last 2 days.

I have another one now, same number but lost all mesages and numbers and records of anyone who called me or left mesages with me.

So if anyone was interested the cages are still for sale and anyone who spoke to me before will have to ring me or mesage me again sorry.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78655-roll-cages/#findComment-1442856
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...