Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey

my thermo died so it had been replaced but the car is now running much cooler then it originally was, these days its lucky to get upto 70deg (damn winter) whilst it was originally running at approx 85 deg. can this cause

bad fuel consumption ?

loss of power ?

engine damage ?

i'm just wondering cause i was looking at the water temp correction tables in the PFC and noticed that the only place where its set to 1.00 is at 80 deg +++

but if my water temp doesn't reach 80deg + then it'll always be treating the engine as if its still warming up..... should i get the thermo adjusted or can i just set the settings in the PFC to 1.00 for water temps at 60 deg +

also in the correciton tables there are 2 columns i assume one is for A/C on and the other for A/C off, but am unsure....

please help :confused: :confused: :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78873-can-an-engine-run-too-cold/
Share on other sites

Most thermos do not cool as well as the standard clutch fan. After people install thermos, they usually notice that the temps run hotter.

Therefore, you're setup should be alright, because if you were running the stock fan, it would be even cooler (that is, assuming that you have the same setup - i.e. it switches on at the same temp etc).

Your best bet is to re-calibrate your thermo fan controller to turn on later and keep your water temp between 75-85degC

Anything less and really it just causes engine wear and tear.

I would be looking to run 1.00 or no extra fuel anything above 70degC, anything below this and it will require extra fuel for smooth running.

well i had a fiddle with the PFC, turned down the 50 deg value in the PFC, seems to be runnign ok, its hard to tell nowhere to get up into 4th gear and wheelspin city thru 1,2, and a bit of 3, so hopefully tommorow will be cold and dry and we'll see, how can i find out how the thermo is set ???

got up to 70 deg quickly tonight on the way home and hovered there not until i put the boot in (3 short boosts in 3rd) did it start to climb and only upto 74 deg, then slowly dropped again......

Most definitely yes.

All metals expand. Aluminium-alloys much more & faster than iron-steel. All engines are machined to calculated clearances for the material composition of the components, so running cool it will not allow enough expansion & most components will wear faster. Also, most alloy headed engines produce maximum power between 82 - 90 deg. c. This is ofcourse as long as the gauge is accurate & measureing the temp. of the water exiting the head. Don't confuse low engine temps. with low charge air temps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...