Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys got my car dynoed at F.I.S.T today

my dad took it in cause due to work, so i didnt get to speak with them

the dyno graphs b4 the car was tuned, was suprsing

only did 116rwkw all the shit was all over the joint.

thats how badly APC tuned the car,

car was tuned, timing adjusted and boost changed to 8 psi

if want some pics of the dyno graphs ya can email me.

[email protected]

after 2 and half hours, and also findin a big leak or somethin on the standard blow off valve and sortin out everything

it was dynoed at 170.1rwkw, on 8psi, smooth as power line.

on that dyno the clutch was slipping at top end so still could of got more.

i just got my car converted to manual, but have had issues with clutch slipping.

my theory is that it wasnt bled properly and could still be air in the system .

as its been adjusted 3 times as the clutch has been engaging at each end of the clutch pedal

and there has been heaps of free travel, then goes back to none at all. and been adjusted each time. Getting real sick of the shit cause havent even got a chance to get a good run in the car.

the gearbox is in good condition,

no crunchin on gears at all,

when the pedal has been adjusted , every is real smooth and awesome to drive

but then a couple of days later it adjusts itself and theres either no free travel or heaps, and engagin at one of the ends of teh pedal.

Brand new clutch ( heavy duty)

and has a 200b slave cylinder, as being told they are the same as a skyline one.

Anyway happy how it idles and runs jsut the clutch at the moment.

and was happy with the dyno even though the clutch did slip on the dyno.

Hopefully when i get all teh shit sorted i'll take it down the quarter .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/78947-dyno-and-clutch-slippage/
Share on other sites

If you have air in the line the clutch will try to stay engaged rather than disengage.

I ran into a problem a couple of months back when i changed my master and slave cylinders. The master wasn't retracting far enough and maintaining pressure in the system. As a result as the temperature of the fluid got hotter (say from sitting at traffic lights for a couple of minutes) it would partially disengage the clutch which resulted in slip when accelerating away.

Easy one to check too. Jack the car up, grab the piston on the slave cylinder and see if you can push it back. If you cant then thats your problem, if you can then you get to keep looking.

trying what bhdave said today see if i can move it

just the thing is that theres abosolutley no free travel and the clutch is harder then usual to push in , so i dont know if im goin to be able to push the piston back .

give it ago though

and i dont know how to post the dyno graph up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...