Jump to content
SAU Community

  

42 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

After selling my other auto 32 im now on the market for a manual.

My dad is importing 2 r32's and i have to decide which 1 i wont( im paying for 100% of the car)

EDIT:More Pics lower!!!

car 1( R32 Black)

1a7ffd500f7bg.jpg

  • Not sure if its an m-spec
  • Very Clean body
  • Ugly Rims
  • Sunroof
  • cheap and nasty head unit
  • 165,000 Km
  • Aftermarket Gearknob
  • Other then thoes, Very stock

Car 2(R32 Grey)

88866614aa8iq.jpg

  • m-spec
  • Very minor dints and scratches in rear
  • M-Spec Rims
  • Sideskirts
  • GTRish Frount bumper (missing lights, has a big gap where FMIC sits)
  • Aftermarket Breaks (not sure which 1's but they are red...)
  • Aftermarket suspension
  • 190,000km
  • Adjustable wing
  • MOMO Steering wheel
  • Stock headunit
  • Lowered (maybe...)
  • Exhaust
  • $2,000 Cheaper
  • No sunroof

Both have HICAS and both are 90 Models.

Now my worry with the Grey car is the 200,000km. Im not sure if im going to have to get the timing belt done again.Whats that going to cost me. The body work i can get fixed for about $500.

What do you guys think i should do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79036-which-32-should-i-get/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Having had two R32’s one with a sunroof and one with out, both had coilovers (Teins in non sunroof and Apexi’s in the sunroof car) I myself would get the non-sunroof car. I found with mine the sunroof’d R32 flexed A LOT more under stress IE: mountain runs, drifting ect. And due to age the sunroofs tend to leak. In saying that though, the black car is cleaner and has less kay’s.

are you 100% sure they are both gtsts??? as in have seen them up close with bonnets up?? have any pics of under bonnets???

the black one dead set looks like a GTE, definatly not a type m.

go the grey one....for $2000 you could pick up another RB20, for another $1500 you could pick up an RB25 even. and you can go for a strap straight of the boat and enjoy it.. sounds good, looks good.. dont have to spend money on the basic straight up things...

the brakes look like the standard calipers, type m's had bigger better brakes. they may have just been painted red.

cheers

Linton

get the black fella..

Possible the rims have been swapped just with any old cheap crap they had sitting around to sell it off. Front bar same as the one that came on my GTS-T (crap for front mounts though)

The other one has been toyed with.. performance mods obviously removed. I bet you the rest of the car is in poorer state of maintenance as well.

Black is a bit of a bitch, but when dirty still looks nice and tough..

KM wouldn't worry about... OMG you might have actually got a couple of non-wound back cars.. because I think about 90% of 1989 cars have been from those figures to their magical 80-90k mark.

The top one is a (quite rare now) R32 GTS-t - not Type M - with optional factory alloys. The brakes on the black GTS-t are rubbish, especially for a turbo car. For this matter alone I'd go for the Silver GTS-t Type M (I've got one - see sig).

BUT - a couple of things:

**The Black car looks like it's in overall better condition. This is something you should really take into consideration, as R32's are getting long in the tooth now.

**The Silver car has the extra Type M goodies - 4-pot brakes, viscous LSD, GT-R style interior etc - but as with 99% of Type M's... it looks as though it's had a hard life. Expect to replace clutch, LSD, suspesion components; fix rusted out rear wheel arches (around the body kit), and other minor mechanical things.

Having said that, if you want to play it safe, go for the black car. If you don't mind fixing lots of stuff (but end up with a better car), go for the silver car.

M Spec only came out in 1993---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=39145

(4 piston front brakes, 2 piston rears, super hicas, bigger factory turbo, grey face dash etc)

Noticed something strange...both of the drivers seats look like series1 r32 seats, yet the passenger seats and door trim look like velour (series2).

And i say depending on what qualities in a 32 you're after and what you're gonna be using it for/doing to it should help determine which one you want :(

Beeeep! Wrong.

The Type M was available from May 1989 to July 1993. I've PM'd funkymonkey to change his post.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...