Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I will hopefully get my R32 GTR this week after 600 years waiting.

What should I be doing to it when I pick it up? Has about 120k kms on it. (unsure if timing belt replaced or not.)

Of course I'll do a full fluids change. And another change fairly soon depending on what the old stuff looks like. And oil filter and service/replace the pod filters.

I'll also be putting in new Iridium plugs, probably NGKs. And almost certainly replace the timing belt just to be sure.

What else should I do/get done to make sure its in good condition?

Should I take it to a mechanic and get compression/leak test done, or anything else?

I'll go right over it visually and try to find any faults I can of course, and maybe take it to Pedders or the like and get them to check it too.

Should I take it to a professional shop to get a full service or do it myself with my mates(I have a friend(best mate's dad) who is a Aircraft Engineer that is qualified as a motor mechanic and helps me out for low fees i.e. usually a case of Boag's)

Is there anything I'm forgetting, or anything else that you would recommend?

Just asking for advice from people who have been there before.

Thanks,

Mat

P.S. I did a search and found very little info on this topic, but I it wouldn't let me go more than 3 pages into history. If you want to have a go at me for not searching first, don't, just go read another post.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79074-new-import-gtr-service/
Share on other sites

Does it have a remote oil filter? If not, get a workshop to do the engine oil swap and filter swap as its a bit of a pig.

All the other fluids are easy enough to replace, but set aside a fair whack of change as you should probably change:

  • Front and rear diffs
  • Gearbox
  • Transfer case
  • Powersteering
  • Radiator coolant
  • Brake coolant
  • Clutch (if you can be bothered)

Then there are all the consumables: brake pads, brake rotors, spark plugs (personally I'd get copper), etc. New air filter/pods is a good idea as most of the ones I have seen ex-Japan are filthy. Also look at changing your fuel filter and getting your injectors cleaned.

There are more, but I have a headache and that's all that comes to mind at the moment :(

Lucien.

brake coolant :s what the hell is that???

i would change every fluid. lucien mentioned them all also i would do the fuel filter, timing belt - why not upgrade water pump to n1 spec whilst doing this?, check all belts, (if not obvious that it has been done ie service history) my car will be in my hands i think in a week, and ill be doing that all, through a week(after work and on a saturday).

compression test is easy enough to do yourself(someone really should write a tutorial about it) and can be done when changing spark plugs.

maybe even drop it into nissan and get them to hook up consult to it(haha i work at nissan :( free use for me )

Liber8: As Lwells has mentioned above. Sure you might be able to do many things at home by yourself on a weekend but an "Import Mechanic" can get the entire thing checked over with things you may not notice along with doing all that 'upfront' dirty work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...