Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I will hopefully get my R32 GTR this week after 600 years waiting.

What should I be doing to it when I pick it up? Has about 120k kms on it. (unsure if timing belt replaced or not.)

Of course I'll do a full fluids change. And another change fairly soon depending on what the old stuff looks like. And oil filter and service/replace the pod filters.

I'll also be putting in new Iridium plugs, probably NGKs. And almost certainly replace the timing belt just to be sure.

What else should I do/get done to make sure its in good condition?

Should I take it to a mechanic and get compression/leak test done, or anything else?

I'll go right over it visually and try to find any faults I can of course, and maybe take it to Pedders or the like and get them to check it too.

Should I take it to a professional shop to get a full service or do it myself with my mates(I have a friend(best mate's dad) who is a Aircraft Engineer that is qualified as a motor mechanic and helps me out for low fees i.e. usually a case of Boag's)

Is there anything I'm forgetting, or anything else that you would recommend?

Just asking for advice from people who have been there before.

Thanks,

Mat

P.S. I did a search and found very little info on this topic, but I it wouldn't let me go more than 3 pages into history. If you want to have a go at me for not searching first, don't, just go read another post.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79074-new-import-gtr-service/
Share on other sites

Does it have a remote oil filter? If not, get a workshop to do the engine oil swap and filter swap as its a bit of a pig.

All the other fluids are easy enough to replace, but set aside a fair whack of change as you should probably change:

  • Front and rear diffs
  • Gearbox
  • Transfer case
  • Powersteering
  • Radiator coolant
  • Brake coolant
  • Clutch (if you can be bothered)

Then there are all the consumables: brake pads, brake rotors, spark plugs (personally I'd get copper), etc. New air filter/pods is a good idea as most of the ones I have seen ex-Japan are filthy. Also look at changing your fuel filter and getting your injectors cleaned.

There are more, but I have a headache and that's all that comes to mind at the moment :(

Lucien.

brake coolant :s what the hell is that???

i would change every fluid. lucien mentioned them all also i would do the fuel filter, timing belt - why not upgrade water pump to n1 spec whilst doing this?, check all belts, (if not obvious that it has been done ie service history) my car will be in my hands i think in a week, and ill be doing that all, through a week(after work and on a saturday).

compression test is easy enough to do yourself(someone really should write a tutorial about it) and can be done when changing spark plugs.

maybe even drop it into nissan and get them to hook up consult to it(haha i work at nissan :( free use for me )

Liber8: As Lwells has mentioned above. Sure you might be able to do many things at home by yourself on a weekend but an "Import Mechanic" can get the entire thing checked over with things you may not notice along with doing all that 'upfront' dirty work.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up!   For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.
    • Probably because they couldn't, because the use of the variable resistor to create a "signal" in the ECU is managed by the ECU's circuitry. The only way that VDO could do it would be if they made a "smart" sensor that directly created the 0-5V signal itself. And that takes us back to the beginning. Well, in that case, you could do the crude digital (ie, binary, on or off) input that I mentioned before, to at least put a marker on the trace. If you pressed the button only at a series of known integer temperatures, say every 2°C from the start of your range of interest up to whatever you can manage, and you know what temperature the first press was at, then you'd have the voltage marked for all of those temperatures. And you can have more than one shot at it too. You can set the car up to get the oil hot (bypass oil coolers, mask off the air flow to oil coolers, and/or the radiator, to get the whole engine a bit hotter, then give it a bit of curry to get some measurements up near the top of the range.   On the subject of the formula for the data you provided, I did something different to Matt's approach, and got a slightly different linear formula, being Temp = -22.45*V + 118.32. Just a curve fit from Excel using all the points, instead of just throwing it through 2 points. A little more accurate, but not drastically different. Rsquared is only 0.9955 though, which is good but not great. If you could use higher order polynomials in the thingo, then a quadratic fit gives an excellent Rsquared of 0.9994. Temp = 2.1059*V^2 - 34.13*V + 133.27. The funny thing is, though, that I'd probably trust the linear fit more for extrapolation beyond the provided data. The quadratic might get a bit squirrely. Hang on, I'll use the formulae to extend the plots.... It's really big so you can see all the lines. I might have to say that I think I really still prefer the quadratic fit. It looks like the linear fit overstates the temperature in the middle of the input range, and would pretty solidly understate what the likely shape of the real curve would say at both ends.
    • I got a hand held bisssel one and it's a piece of shit. Doesn't work for more than about 5 seconds. So much so that I nearly refuse to believe any wet dry vac actually works or has enough suction to clean the carpet of a car. I'm discouraged as all the good ones are $300+ for an unknown result. I saw MCM did a Ryobi video where they use this thing: https://www.ryobi.com.au/products/stick-vacuum-cleaners/18v-one-hptm-brushless-spot-cleaner-tool-only Anyone have any experience actually using a tool like this when not paid to showcase it?
    • That could very well be the thermistor, but the ECU only sees Volts. VDO don't seem to provide a 0-5 volt curve, only the resistance curve.... (or line).
    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
×
×
  • Create New...