Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I am a new ceffy owner :P Got a few questions for you guys

1) Why does my ceffy have two throttles in the engine bay? My mate said it may have had cruise control but i couldn't find anything on the dash.

2) Is the ceffy actually wider than the sil? What offset is required for wheels to be flush with the guards?

3) Where can I get a kit?

and... 4) SR or RB20 for the conversion :( (I lost my lisence for 6 months so I got about 5k and 5 more months to make it into something decent ;))

Thanks for your help,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79637-ceffy-question/
Share on other sites

Im not looking for huge power as I have already lost my lisence once and the temptation would be even greater with a 25, just looking around 150-170rwkw which is quite possible with a near stock rb20, maybe with a tb25 turbo or something. That 5k wasn't justr for the engine btw :(

LoL, you will piss that in no worries.

Just go an rb20 then. Say aftermarket management. Go the rb25 turbo so it makes that power easier. FMIC, gearbox if yours is still auto etc.

Theres ya 5k...

Then spend whatever else you had on decent suspension. Springs that work (ie not too hard) all your sway bars, castor, camber, bushes, then get stuck in to the brakes etc. Have the whole package.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79637-ceffy-question/#findComment-1450832
Share on other sites

Yeah if you want response go the sr20 with the s15 BB turbo. too_much was pulling 190rwkw with his sil80 I believe.

You'll need a FMIC, fuel pump, injectors, tune ... plus engine plus gearbox.. hmm I think done right you could pull it under $5k.

I'd go the SR ... I would never ever put a rb20 into a cefiro.. if it alreayd had one in there then no worries.. but why would you put one in ? :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79637-ceffy-question/#findComment-1451375
Share on other sites

Yeah if you want response go the sr20 with the s15 BB turbo. too_much was pulling 190rwkw with his sil80 I believe.

That's 197.7rwkw thankyou very much!.. on 12psi with factory ecu, injectors and afm!

will be interesting to see what it does on 16-17psi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79637-ceffy-question/#findComment-1451558
Share on other sites

3) Where can I get a kit?

and... 4) SR or RB20 for the conversion :) (I lost my lisence for 6 months so I got about 5k and 5 more months to make it into something decent :D)

Thanks for your help,

Chris

3) For a kit there are a few guys on NS.com (sponser section) selling kits.

4) i'd go a RB25, or SR20, just depends on what you want. SR for dorifto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79637-ceffy-question/#findComment-1452336
Share on other sites

I was under the impression rb was:

+more powerful stock

+designed for the car

++cheaper

-older

-less torquey

sr's:

+newer

+torque

+lighter

+more aftermarket parts

-more expensive

-less base power

Won't be using the car for pure drift, maybe an event evey now and again. So many people seem to be against the rb :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79637-ceffy-question/#findComment-1452373
Share on other sites

hey when you go from rb to sr did you have to change any of the mounts? did you buy them or fabricate? how is it done? also how much of a pain would it be to get your warning lights and speedo etc working? perhaps too much could enlighten us?? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79637-ceffy-question/#findComment-1452375
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
    • Hi Jasmine. How's the war going?
    • I'm extremely suspicious of the VPP stuff. Best I can tell, you surrender any and all control of your panels and battery to the VPP, because there's no way that anyone could write a sufficiently useful set of "rules" as to how much you would be willing to let out of your export meter at any given time. If one of your main interests is to have enough in your battery every evening to get you through the night without having to import, you could easily find yourself with nothing in your battery at the end of the day, or part way through the night, and then be paying import pricing instead of paying nothing. I cannot see how this cannot come to pass.
    • majority aftermarket is an10 yes, but majority of OEM is An12 r35 OEM cooler lines at close to an 12, the hard line that car uses is almost 20mm  Porsche OEM is also AN12   i figure, if our power levels are close to 1000hp, then AN12 should be a must if many OEM standard power vehicles use AN12
×
×
  • Create New...