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Feedback wanted on R32GTR thats been looked over by mechanic.

daveR32gtr
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daveR32gtr Contributor

daveR32gtr

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone. (this may be a crappy thead i know) Just thought id post this see if i get any reply's from the best forum on earth. So got this summery sheet from the workshop. Could you plz tell me your opinions on the list.....eg what should be fixed asap etc what you think of compression what items might mean what)

thanx (will leave some of the dumber items off eg.window washers not working correctly etc)

No. #3 cylander burning oil - s plug white

Rocker Gasket leaking

centre tailshaft universal has movement

top of g/box wet with oil

timing belts last done?

coolant/brake fluids nedd replacing

top radiator rubber mount broken

RH top of suspension arm knocking

left rear suspensioin arm was loose

high hydrocarbons on idle - camshafts?

compresion 1-140 2-150 3-125 4-120 5-155 6-120

umm yeh couple of others not worth listing etc

any input appriciated (yes im going 2 get leakdown test done but broke atm) (also how much u reckon to get valves reseated?) (along with fixing all on list)

nothing major there bit concerned bout comp tho but yeh just thought id put it out there

btw heading 2 japan soon land of the gtr....cant wait!

peace all

daveR32gtr Contributor

daveR32gtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

umm yeh (camshafts apparantly) pods..highflow turbos apparantly...full exhaust umm.. hks intake bits thats roughly it as far as (engine) goes

(car seems to be running really well atm tho....was running there for a while shite but changed plugs and taped coils thing and seems to of made a good difference

running standard boost and has about 50,000 on clock

;) plz dont say rebuild time....i just shat myself

(apart from compression what tell tale signs are there that a rebuild is needed????)

others?

surely its not rebuild time just need valves reseated?

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Those compression results are far from great, id steer clear of anything with more than 10psi variance across cylinders. Get a leakdown test and see if it tells you whats breaking inside the engine. The burning oil on cylinder #3 isnt a good sign either.

Cam cover gaskets are normal, most GTR's I see have a dribble of oil from the rear of the cam covers. All the other things just sound like normal wear and tear. As for the high hydrocarbons, we started my car with no cat on and Tomei 260 in/ex cams, and it sent the machine off the scale at idle. EPA might hate you for it though...

Normal wear and tear doesnt sound too bad, they are old cars but engine wise id be putting money aside as I wouldnt be suprised if the engine let go some time soon.

daveR32gtr Contributor

daveR32gtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

if its all so bad then why the hell didnt the workshop tell me to stear clear instead of saying yeah its good car with minor faults...so i bought it!! dont get me wrong i love my car but if the engine goes in the near future then im gonna be P I S S E D how do i payout on workshop if it does die?

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted

It is very easy to produce a bad result with a compression test not done quite right. Have a leak-down test done before getting too excited.

No. #3 cylander burning oil - s plug white

This doesn't make sense. Burning oil = black oily plug.

Rocker Gasket leaking

No biggy...gaskets relax with age...re-tighten screws

centre tailshaft universal has movement

R32GTR tailshaft does not have a centre universal joint....it has a CV joint and some movement is normal because it is rubber mounted.

top of g/box wet with oil

Almost certainly the shift lever boot has perished. Simple job to check and replace. Boot costs about $30.

timing belts last done?

If you don't have any history on the car, timing belt should be one of the first things on the list....recommend doing the water pump at the same time as well as the idler/tensioner bearings.

coolant/brake fluids nedd replacing

Again, unless you know the cars history, change all fluids (I would do them regardless)

Any loose or suspect suspension parts should be repaired/retightened/replaced as required. Close inspection of brake condition is a also a must.

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

Not good dude....

If the car had 50 on the clock and has these problems didnt you think this was strange.

The compression tests do not look good at all. The suspension and rubber dammage tells me straight away that this car has done more the 50k.... With out even looking at it....

Drive it like it is now..... Sell it and buy another one..... Next time get a forum member to go with you to check it over... Im sure there are a few in TAS who would help ya out...

Morgs Veteran

Morgs

Posted
Posted

All these old RB26s are timebomb (I'd suggest you're naive if you don't agree)

I'd look at a leak down before you decide its rooted

Steve's reply is fairly comprehensive

PS welcome to the world of the GTR time to introduce it to your wallet :rant:

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