Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just after some opinions.

Looking at getting an Aftermarket ECU for my 32 (Rb20det)

Is there anything anyone wouldnt go near.. or would go straight for..

Im just after a plug-in.. as im just trying to get the car up and running..

Nothing tooo Expensive.. but decent....

Cheers all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80115-r32-aftermarket-ecu/
Share on other sites

Why do u need a new ecu ??? are you planning on doing a lot more mods eg turbo injectors fuel pump etc if not don’t waste your money on the PowerPC as u need the ap engineering one which is a fair bit more expensive than the standard one I think they go for around $1150 + second hand with hand controller the new ones are even more aren’t they ???

Just get a standard ecu $100 - $200 then an SAFC and you will be right :)

Really depends on the extent of modification you plan on taking out. The r32 computer is fairly common to be remaped as it is easy to do (apparently) in comparison to the r33 computer.

If you go full plug n play, PFC or Wolf3d are prolly best options.

I once heard as a rule of thumb 20% of your build budget should go into computer and tuning.

Power FC will increase power as it lets you play with air/fuel ratios and ignition timing. Ive seen people net 40+kw from fitting an aftermarket ecu and getting a good tune. SAFC would cut it for air/fuel ratio, but still doesnt let you play with ignition timing etc.

Thanx guys...

IM not realy planing anything as yet for massive mods..

The standard ecu has a fuel cut.. which is causing big problems for me atm..

Im after somthing that will increse power, good for tunning.

Mods: Boost increase and front mount.

thats it..

Seems like PFC is the way to go.. Ill have a looka round for prices.. but then again.. might be to expensive for what im looking for.

Thanx all.

SAFC does nothing more than intercept values from the AFM, alter them, and lie to the stock ECU to get it to add/remove fuel in places it shouldnt be. If you just want to get rid of the fuel cut, HKS fuel cut defender... but why is it hitting fuel cut?

I still say save the extra $$ and get PFC, its fully tunable (fuel mapping, ignition mapping, temp correction mapping, afm configuration etc) and you'll net more power from it as well as improve driveability throughout the whole rev range.

Fuel cut.... well ive wound the boost up... and since then its been cutting majorly...

But i also think ther is something else wrong...

The car just keeps cutting when boost kicks in.

Plus i kinda like the look of a lil hand controller sitting it the cabin.

Sounds like you've wound the boost up too high and with the cold weather you are hitting fuel cut due to overboosting?

I often see upto 2lb of extra boost in really cold weather. EBC doesn't seem to be able to prevent it going that high when its caused by low air temperatures.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...