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anyone ever heard of one/know where to pick up one???

trying to remove crank pulley bolt,

i tried wedging a screw driver into the teeth of the fly wheel ringgear

whilst trying to undo the pulley bolt but that was kinda dodgy and didnt work....

anyone know any other ways of removing the bolt without the ringgear stopper?

i also tried just putting the car in gear but that also didn't work...

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Put an impact socket on a strong, long, breaker bar. wedge the end of the bar on a chassis rail or something really solid. Disconnect the coil loom or otherwise stop the engine being able to start. Flick the starter key for a fraction of a second. The starters power and the engines inertia wil jar the bolt free. be careful, if something slips or breks metal can go flying with serious force, don't have anyone standing overlooking the engine bay!. A bit crude, but very effective and a commonly used practice. Nicer way? Air gun on the pulley bolt.

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I undid mine not long ago, i bent a few ratchets in the process and a rattle gun wouldnt budge it.

I purchaced a strong/long socket bar from repco and a THICK long pole on the end of that and even then it took me a shit load of back and forth tugs before it snapped loose. I couldnt believe how tight it was!

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Driver: I undid mine not long ago, i bent a few ratchets in the process and a rattle gun wouldnt budge it.

I purchaced a strong/long socket bar from repco and a THICK long pole on the end of that and even then it took me a shit load of back and forth tugs before it snapped loose. I couldnt believe how tight it was!

Yeah but how did you lock up the ring gear on the flywheel to enable you to stop any rotation of the pulley??

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I managed to do it with the 2-screwdriver trick. The screwdrivers need to be reasonably substantial, and you need a long breaker bar on the bolt. This was with the engine out of the car, though. Also helps to have a helper.

I've also done it with the engine installed (to replace the water pump). Pretty sure I just stuck it in gear, and used a 18" breaker.

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anyone ever heard of one/know where to pick up one???

trying to remove crank pulley bolt,

i tried wedging a screw driver into the teeth of the fly wheel ringgear

whilst trying to undo the pulley bolt but that was kinda dodgy and didnt work....

anyone know any other ways of removing the bolt without the ringgear stopper?

i also tried just putting the car in gear but that also didn't work...

Put it in gear and pull the handbrake up very hard , if you have a helper get them to put their foot on the brake .

If you have a gtr you will need a 3/4 drive 30 mm socket and a srong bar , for a gts 27 mm socket .

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Put it in gear and pull the handbrake up very hard , if you have a helper get them to put their foot on the brake .

If you have a gtr you will need a 3/4 drive 30 mm socket and a srong bar , for a gts 27 mm socket .

Yeah i tried that but even with sumone pressing the brake the car was moving...My clutch is on the way out (slips during launches more than 3500) Could that be the problem? I guess it cant really be cuz the car still moves. The brakes just dont seem to bight enough without any booster.. Im thinking to just re install the starter and do wat Chris Wilson posted...Any more tips?

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Still no luck with the crank pulley bolt. ive tried putting a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth and it wont hold it enough. Just slips and sparks. So i tried putting th starter back in and using a breaker bar jammed up against teh chassis rail while i flicked the starter over for a second. That also didnt seem to have enough power to undo it. I tried that alot of times but was worried it would burn out the motor... I need HELP!!

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The starter will work if you have a fully charged battery and dont jam the bar on the rail , leave the bar some slack and put a block of wood on the rail so the bar hits the wood and not the rail . Hit the starter and if it doesn't undo don't hold the starter on , let go and try again but this time give it more slack , 2 or 3 goes and it will come . Make sure the bar will hit the wood only otherwise you will damage whatever it hits and don't stand in the way .

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Hi Deren, I replaced my 32 GTR timing belt a couple of months ago and had a god awful time getting the crank pulley bolt off. The "breaker bar on chassis rail and crank the starter" method does not work on RB26's as the bolt is torqued too tight - it works OK on 25's and 20's as their bolt has half the torque of the '26.

This is how I got mine undone:

1. Car in 4th gear, hand brake on as hard as possible, helper in drivers seat with foot as hard as possible on brake.

2. Breaker bar on crank bolt with long pipe (1.2metres) on breaker bar handle.

3. Put as much pressure as you can on the end of the pipe with one hand and hit the pipe with a decent sledgehammer with the other hand. You really need to put a lot of pressure on the pipe before you hit it or it won't work.

4. 3 hits and my bolt finally came loose and no damage was done - have driven 5000k's since timing belt replacement with no problems.

I know it sounds agricultural but after 6 hours trying to get that bastard bolt undone I would have tried anything!

Hope this helps.

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I saw a mechanic having a bad day one day and in his haste he held the bar up to the wrong side of the chassis rail....

Ended up with a broken pair of glasses and a busted nose..... It sort of went like this "watch how we do this you apprentices... *whack* - You *ucken mole"

Sumo

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Managed to do two within half an hour when changing the pulley arrangement over from my R33 engine to my R34 engine. Both out of the car, both jammed with a screwdriver.

What you need to do is apply a shock force as Marriott said. Applying a steady increasing force won't do the trick. Get an 18" bar and a gimpy/copper hammer and belt it a few times.

Here's a question, are you actually trying it anticlockwise or clockwise?

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Hi Deren, I replaced my 32 GTR timing belt a couple of months ago and had a god awful time getting the crank pulley bolt off.  The "breaker bar on chassis rail and crank the starter" method does not work on RB26's as the bolt is torqued too tight - it works OK on 25's and 20's as their bolt has half the torque of the '26.

This is how I got mine undone:

1.  Car in 4th gear, hand brake on as hard as possible, helper in drivers seat with foot as hard as possible on brake.

2.  Breaker bar on crank bolt with long pipe (1.2metres) on breaker bar handle.

3.  Put as much pressure as you can on the end of the pipe with one hand and hit the pipe with a decent sledgehammer with the other hand.  You really need to put a lot of pressure on the pipe before you hit it or it won't work.  

4.  3 hits and my bolt finally came loose and no damage was done - have driven 5000k's since timing belt replacement with no problems.

I know it sounds agricultural but after 6 hours trying to get that bastard bolt undone I would have tried anything!

Hope this helps.

That deffinetly did help! Thanks heaps worked a treat! I really didnt think id get it undone but you saved the day for me. Thanks mate!

Deren

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Now that Deren has the bolt off. How do we go about putting the bolt back on?

My workshop manual specifies the torque specs on the balancer bolt as 329-344 ft/lb or 446-466 N/m.

I have a huge 3/4" torque wrench with an 1¼" (approx 30mm) and with the car in gear the brakes hard on I can't put adequate force against it.. the driveline has too much slack and the car rolls slightly.

Whats the solution?? I'm thinking rattle gun at this point, even though I don't like the idea.

Cheers.

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Deren, glad you got it off.

I used the same method in reverse to do the bolt back up. Its such a large bolt with fine threads that there is no chance of stripping it, so I did it up as hard as I could with the breaker & extension and then whacked it a few times. Hasn't come undone so far.

Cheers.

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