Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey dude,

i got 17x8 +28 on the front and 17x9 +35 on the rear and they just sit nicely but gurads will need to be rolled for extreme low suspension... mine can fit like 2 fingers now....

so i recommend this set up...

hope this helped....

masahiro

IM000070.jpg

IM000091.jpg

^ those are pics of my r32 4dr with SSR Gartmiers. fronts are 18x9 and rears are 18x10. something like +1 offset i think.. (use wheel offset calculator http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html to work out what offsets will work)

I had trouble with the fronts, as they were scrubbing on edge of the guards. This could have been avoided by raising the car slightly (front is pretty low, stock would probably be alright) and lower profiles on the tyres, and a bit of guard rolling.

Rears had to be rolled and flared to run 10's, but mainly coz of the offset had them out the guards :D I original had SSR Integral A2's 17x9 and 17x8 (Can't remember offset) and they were fine without flaring or lipping etc.

be careful with flaring the 4-dr's if you have access to a guardroller. They are alright, you just have to be careful with the rears because the door is close. You also get a slight bubble at the edge of the door, but i'm going to get a panel beater to fix that up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...