Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as above i live in england and the forums in england no one seems to help!!??

i have a r32 gtr and im having some problems. its running 400bhp+ with a few mods. cut a long story short i have had the car for a few months no problems running sweet as a nut, then a slight miss occured only under full throttle above 5000rpm, everyone said coil packs which i still think it is.

nyway my rad blew up so i got a new 1, then i realised my water pump had gone so i replaced that. got car running again. my car is not over heating but seems to be runnig ever so slightlt warmer but there has been an increase in the weather.

people r saying that my head is cracked ? could this be? there is no loss in performance not drop in oil pressure and no mixture of oil and water.

the car from day one has bubbled after driving hard and been parked up and is still doing it now could this be anything to do with it?

would really appreciate some help need to get sorted

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80328-urgent-help-needed/
Share on other sites

If you have a cracked head or a blown h/gasket you will be loosing coolant , the coolant level will go down bellow the low level in the plastic tank .

How do you know its running hotter ? do you have a reliable temp gauge ? power f/c ? Or you just look at the stock gauge ? When the stock gauge is in the middle the temp can vary from 80- 105 degrees !

When you replaced the radiator did you use the same one ? same size core ? smaller / larger ? Is the auxiliary fan ( air cond fan ) connected ? is the clutch fan working ?

Did you find out the reason the rad blew up ?

the car from day one has bubbled after driving hard and been parked up and is still doing it now could this be anything to do with it?

It might simply be that the system has not been bled properly and/or there are blockages in one of a miriad of pipes caused by corrosion. The bubbling suggests you have air pockets or hot spots in the system. I would suggest a complete drain and flush is required (inc removal of the block drain) followed by a careful refill and bleed.

is there no other reason for slow loss of coolant other than cracked head or leaking gasket? I have a very gradual loss of coolant...can't see any coolant leaking etc....the car is coming up to 100k so am looking at replacing water pump and pipes....just hope i don't have a cracked head.

There is no coolant in the engine oil and my gasket was replaced recently.

If you have a cracked head or a blown h/gasket you will be loosing coolant , the coolant level will go down bellow the low level in the plastic tank .

How do you know its running hotter ? do you have a reliable temp gauge ? power f/c ? Or you just look at the stock gauge ? When the stock gauge is in the middle the temp can vary from 80- 105 degrees !

When you replaced the radiator did you use the same one ? same size core ? smaller / larger ? Is the auxiliary fan ( air cond fan ) connected ? is the clutch fan working ?  

Did you find out the reason the rad blew up ?

never found out why rad gave in there wasnt any rise in temp so just put it down to being 16year old, replaced with same size core.

i only have two fans the main one and air con one both working fine.

im just reading the stock gauge.

is there any definate checks i can do for a cracked head/gasket??

cheers for the replys much more help than england.

the bubbling only seems to occur after driving hard?? ive tried bleeding from everywhere?? this cars is doing my head in!!

a radiator shop should be able to do a test where they can check for hydrocarbons(fuel) in the water, the test solution changes colour when hydrocarbons are present. can't remember the name of the test but they hook up the tester where the radiator cap goes.

Also are you sure there are no leaks from any of the other hoses not being tight enough. don't forget to turn heater on fully when bleeding the air out of cooling system if you do it yourself.

A pressure test will tell you if you have cracked head of blown h/gasket .

Have you checked the radiator cap ?

You cant go on the stock temp gauge , you are going to have to test it with a known good gauge then you will see what the temp gets up to .

A pressure test will tell you if you have cracked head of blown h/gasket .

Have you checked the radiator cap ?

You cant go on the stock temp gauge , you are going to have to test it with a known good gauge then you will see what the temp gets up to .

found a tiny hole last night in new water pump!! long story anyway sorted and my heater is working now not just on FH like b4. but the worring thing its still missing and bubbling after a hard drive. the missing is wen it gets hot and its after 5000rpm at full throttle not half throttle??? is this signs of a crack opening with heat? tried changing one coil pack at a time and no joy. my local mechanic says its def the head cracked or gasket?? cheers for ur replys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...