Jump to content
SAU Community

Quick Translation Pls

klh6686

By klh6686,
in Japan

 Share

Recommended Posts

klh6686 Explorer

klh6686

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, i have a Blitz DSBC boost controller and from my understanding it has an extra plug for a Blitz Map Analyzer. Now what i am trying to figure out is if i could hook up a generic GM MAP sensor to it to get the Map function to work on the boost controller. I am under the impression that i will then be able to select the PSI i want to run w/o fooling around w/ gains and ratios. I am not asking for a complete translation, maybe just the graphs and anything that deals w/ the pressure range and or voltage range, maybe anything dealing with the input output, etc. Thanks in advance!

PDF: http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/boost-map-ana.pdf

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/80492-quick-translation-pls/
Share on other sites
totoro Collaborator

totoro

Posted
Posted

hey dude,

below is the translation:

boost up analyser can be connected to dual-SBC, dual-SBC specSR, SBC i-D(II, III included), and sbc-dc in order to control boost from total of 10 varients of programming settings which are vehicle speed, engine revs, voltage (throttle position sensor or air/fuel ratio sensor[?]) which are 2 dimensional maps, or vehicle speed & engine revs, engine revs & voltage, and voltage & vehicle speed which are 3 dimensional maps and 9 map+overtake. It is possible to achieve the desired boost level by controlling boost. The 10 varients of programming can be changed with one switch which can be switched according to different stages.

For example:

MAP1: vehicle speed 2 dimensional

vehicle speed 0km/h~ 50km/h~ 100km/h~

boost level setting 0.8kg/F 1.2kg/F 1.5kg/F

At the start of 0-400m to prevent wheelspin the boost level is 0.8kg/F until 50km/h then 1.2kg/F for 50km/h~ and 1.5kg/F for 100km/h~, this setting may bring out the optimum performance.

MAP9: vehicle speed & voltage (from throttle position sensor) 3 dimensional

acceleratorvehicle speed 0km/h~ 50km/h~ 150km/h~ 200km/h~

0~50% 0.8kg/F 0.8kg/F 0.8kg/F 0.8kg/F

50~90% 1.0kg/F 1.2kg/F 1.5kg/F 1.2kg/F

90~100% 1.0kg/F 1.5kg/F 1.8kg/F 1.5kg/F

When the accelerator is 0~50%, it is for fuel economy driving so at any speed the boost level remains the same but in a battle when the accelerator is maxed at 150km/h~over then the boost is able to be set at 1.8kg/F keeping in mind full acceleration.

MAP chart

MAP1 vehicle speed A

MAP2 vehicle speed B

MAP3 vehicle speed & engine revs

MAP4 engine revs A

MAP5 engine revs B

MAP6 engine revs & voltage

MAP7 voltage A

MAP8 voltage B

MAP9 voltage & vehicle speed

MAP0 overtake

there maybe few bits where the translation is a bit iffy... like voltage? im not sure if it is the right english term but hope this helps... and if anyone can correct few bits here and there it should be all good....

cheers

masahiro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...