Jump to content
SAU Community

  

75 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

I can't quite see how a mechanical will be any more accurate or quicker to react as long as the electronic gauge has got decent electronics... and things have changed since the 70's in regards to cheap electronics. Afterall, once the signal is converted to voltage, it then drives the needle - rather than the fluid being sent all the way into the cabin. The speed of light is a little faster than the speed of fluid I would think?

In some ways I am not even sure why everything is getting converted to an electrical signal anyhow, and then it uses that voltage to move a silly analogue needle. Especially when a little LCD display is next to nothing these days.

My mate has a mechanical oil pressure gauge .. The fact that the oil is going straight into the cabin is not good at all if you ask me. Always is uncomfortably warm to the touch.

I can't quite see how a mechanical will be any more accurate or quicker to react as long as the electronic gauge has got decent electronics... and things have changed since the 70's in regards to cheap electronics. Afterall, once the signal is converted to voltage, it then drives the needle - rather than the fluid being sent all the way into the cabin. The speed of light is a little faster than the speed of fluid I would think?  

In some ways I am not even sure why everything is getting converted to an electrical signal anyhow, and then it uses that voltage to move a silly analogue needle. Especially when a little LCD display is next to nothing these days.  

My mate has a mechanical oil pressure gauge .. The fact that the oil is going straight into the cabin is not good at all if you ask me. Always is uncomfortably warm to the touch.

That will be fun in an accident if the oil line gets split and you are stuck in the car with 80+ degree oil spraying you.

Im interested to know... I have an oil pressure guage thats mechanical that plugs into my sandwich adaptor on the block... and there is already oil in it from the sender entrance to the guage... im thinking tho, that the oil in this piece of 2-3m copper tubing will never reach the same temperature as the oil inside the motor... considering its distance from the heat source, the length of cooling it has by the copper piping etc...

JK

That will be fun in an accident if the oil line gets split and you are stuck in the car with 80+ degree oil spraying you.

oh, trust me, i keep thinking that.. and i have a nasty habbit of fiddling with stuff.. hehe. Its one of those things installed by last owner, that you just really can't be assed pulling out.. but i am sure it would be a good idea.

err :confused: why the hell is this thread up the top again when i posted it yesterday :confused:

With the speed of stepper motors these days it really is of no consequence the speed comparison of the Mech to Elect.. Of course some elect are crap, I prefer Turst guages, but the best are Defi, closely followed by Apexi in my opinion.. I just have a full suite of Trust guages already and refuse to change out as it would cost a few grand for Defi..

Question is: What do you guys prefer?

Electric or Mechanical Gauge?

This is for oil pressure and a boost gauge.

On a side note...

What do the stock gauges use? Mechnical or Electric?

I had a Mechanical Oil gauge mounted in the dash on the passenger side of my S13. My mate twisted it a little. After a long drive he said that he needed a tissue. When he opened the compartment underneth the gauge (here the plumbing & wiring may be found) the whole f@#kin compartment was soaked in oil. The tube connecting the oil supply to the gauge fractured. It was a real bad experience.

So if you ask me I would rather use a electrical gaue because I think they don't have oil lines running to them. Also, I have a mech. boost gauge which I think is not 100% accurate; because on cold mornings when I release the throttle on about 5 vaccum (not sure of the unit for vaccum) I here the flutter. Prior to releasing I here the turbo on boost. They are both autometer gauges.

Both, Go electronic for the Oil, and Mechanical for the Boost.

A good aftermarket oil guage can read off your stock pressure sensor, or will include a replacement that can be fitted in the stock ones location.

The levels of vacume/boost that you are dealing with are pretty small so you arent in any danger of, say, being sucked into the turbo and killed.

The stock boost guage in the dash of a R33gtst is mechanical I think, I tapped into the vacuume line coming up to the bottom of the dash inside the cabin for my A'pexi EL boost guage. responsive wise, when my foot moves on the accellerator, the A'pexi moves instantly. Its miles ahead in responsiveness than the stock dash guage which lags behind.

For example, at idle and looking at the dash instruments when I rev the car. The A'pexi guage responds first, then the tacho flicks up, the oil guage quivers for a second, and lastly, the stock boost guage sluggishly decides to respond.

The drawbacks of mechanical as opposed to electric that I know of is that Mechanical guages might become less trustworthy after a few (3 or 4) years of use and might need to be recalibrated by professionals.

Oh, and lastly. My preference is on a $300 Jap-branded guage which is super responsive over a $130 Autometer. Sure its cheaper, but in my experience they are slow and sluggish to respond, much like the stock guages

  • 2 weeks later...

In my experience, as a marine fitter, the accuracy of of most gauges is in direct proportion to the quality of the their build and the quality of installation. Cheap quality electronic gauges were a boon in my industry(I've run miles of copper piping) but some are still mech by standards, mainly steam and oil.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...